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  1. 10 weeks? your best bet is to let it ride from here and NOT treat your plants with anything. when you cut the plants for harvest, cut the entire plant, hang it upside down, and spray the stem, at the top, where you cut it ......with alcohol, neem oil, and everything you have. after you harvest the plant it will begin to dry out ..... within 24-48 hours all the mites will walk off the leaves/flowers of your hanging plant and walk to the top ......... where the stem was cut.... you can kill them here. obviously you should treat everything in your garden now too. using anything at this point will leave dead mite carcasses in your meds ..... best to hang the entire plant and let them walk off your flowers at will .... then kill them at the top. rubbing alcohol kills resin glands so its not good to use during the flower stage.
  2. oh i love that stuff too. im glad i tried it once because ill never go back...... im gently phasing all the black tube out of my rooms cool pic!! i like that one. it definitely illustrates the reason why i DON'T like this type of system (the water farm). as you see, anything that settles on top of the hydroton WILL eventually gets washed down into your water below. all it takes is one hair to completely screw up your environment down there.
  3. <br /><br /><br /> howdy howdy. its all in the terminology really. rather than fight wiki over a definition, ill just start typing yes, bubbleponics is superior in my mind. bubbleponics is a form of dwc. if you add the top drip system to a bubbletote it has become rdwc because you are recirculating the water. i have used these top drip systems before and its really not worth it. just a stone in the bucket and air moving through is plenty. the recirculating part is in no way necessary, nor does it really affect growth. the one thing that the recirculating does do for you is allow you to check/fill/test only one bucket/rez/tote and have it affect all the other buckets/totes in the string. i do not like using the spaghetti tubing because it just creates one hell of a mess in the grow room having 100's of extra feet of tubing lying around. thus, the reason i hook all my buckets/totes together the way i do. the spaghetti tubes are not necessary, and they do not make any more of a difference than the way i recirculate the water..... just less hassle without them. i believe jipo just got done with a run using the spaghetti tubing and can probably testify as well.
  4. i know i have posted all this before, but in effort to get us both off the hook from looking for it, ill just retype it i use fans EVERYWHERE. from the ceiling facing down, from the floor facing up, on the walls, everywhere. as far as air circulation inside the room there is no such thing as too much . not only are they keeping fresh air moving around the leaves to aid in proper transpiration, they help to keep threats from bugs down too. also, they promote stronger stems, which is never a bad thing. in nature, the wind blows on a plant and it sways from side to side. this actually tears the stem just a bit and the plant heals itself by growing back what was torn plus scar tissue as well.... making it stronger and thicker. as far as the amount of bubbles, or the amount of air into each bucket/tote ..... yes, there is such a thing as too much. by nature, roots are very delicate, and they are pretty amazing too. but also by nature, i dont believe that roots like to be in a hurricane type environment. this is why im not a fan of the "true" undercurrent systems that keep the water moving 55mph. they literally beat the hell out of the roots. also, there is only so much air that the roots will take, regardless of how much you force at them . but, if you are using air stones, its REAL hard to put enough air through the stone to do any damage to the roots. the stone diffuses the forced air so greatly that its almost 100% fail-proof. you just have to make sure you keep your stones clean/keep new stones. they can and will clog up on ya and greatly reduce the amount of flow.
  5. i have seen this done, but never attempted it myself. once you get the water temps down, you will more than likely find that its more of a pain in the butt to handle than whats its worth. i understand the fear of one plant catching something and then spreading it to all the others .......... but if you keep your system sealed from outside air, and keep the water temps down, you should NEVER have a problem with root rot, brown slimy roots, or anything else in there. the system i saw was a deep freezer system..... and obviously a deep freezer takes up some space in a grow room. he had about 100ft of copper tubing curled up inside the deep freezer and then adapted that to regualr hydro tubing and ran it through all his buckets and then back into the deep freeze, and then back around ect ...... it seemed to me that all the time he spent checking/filling each bucket daily just wasnt worth it. so .................. i have seen it done ..... but i doubt i would ever try anything like that.
  6. ive personally never been one to take chances. assuming you have more than a couple inches of tube between buckets, i would set the problem bucket on a small step stool or something. you just need to get it a few inches off the ground. then let all the water run to either side. then pull that bucket out of the system and hook it all back up.......... and fix the problem/change out buckets/whatever you need to do. i used a clear silicone years and years ago without any problems, but i never felt safe about it and eventually just ripped that bucket out of the line and replaced with a new one. you just never know what can leech into your grow water. best of luck!!
  7. haha @ mike :)

    thanks toad. very kind.

    and to everyone else, thanks a ton. hit me up in the help thread or the budget grow journal and ill do my best to answer!!

  8. when i try to "bulk upload" i have a 10 pic limit. but i can load another 10 right after that if needed. im not positive if thats like that for everyone, or just me. as far as posting pics in one post, its usually around 18-20 but i think it depends on file size, not quantity. when i do my real long DIY's i usually have to split it up into a couple different posts instead of just one.
  9. some strains just don't have dense flowers. period. they are just that way and there is nothing you can do about it. also, density has absolutely nothing to do with potency or medical properties/value. obviously it increases bag appeal and growers like dense buds because there is more weight in the same space............ but that means nothing to the quality. probably the most common reason that a strain which normally produces dense flowers to suddenly produce lighter/more airy flowers is humidity. I try to stay between 40%-55% during flower. a little up or down is ok, but if you get above or below for too long it can have negative results. also ........... in the rare case that you DO experience due to light, its probably because your lamps need replaced. and adding cfl's to the mix will not increase flower density in most cases. they just are powerful enough to make THAT much of a difference.
  10. bloom boosters are so strain/method specific its crazy. and please don't let anyone tell you any different. what works for one strain may not work for another. what works for a strain in soil may not work as well as that same strain and same booster, but in hydro. some strains just simply will not react to any boosters at all. I used to piddle with this and its really a time consuming and expensive effort sometimes to see any difference at all. I found that when it worked, koolbloom was the way to go.
  11. hiya bish. yup, everyone is right although .......... I prefer to do it in one shot. also, I make the long period the dark one if one is necessary. basically if im moving my lights from an on time of 9am to an on time of 6pm I will shut the lights off at 9pm and leave them off until 6pm the next eve.
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