Need Your Grow Questions Answered? Come On In!

[Grow Thread]

finally taking the time to do this. the coffee and GREAT meds have me super motivated today.

 

HOW TO UPLOAD AND ADD PICTURES TO MMMA2.0

 

first, in the upper right corner of the screen is your user name, it has a drop down menu attached to the little white arrow. choose "my gallery"

 

 

once you get to this point, if you haven't already, you will have to create and name a new photo album. after you have created the album, it is time to add pics!! there are 2 buttons you can use. one is for a single pic upload (new image), and the other (bulk upload) button lets you upload 3 pics at a time.

 

 

after you press one of these 2 buttons, the upload screen will appear. at the bottom of the screen you will see a button that says "browse", clicking this button will let you browse the folders on your computer and choose the picture(s) that you want to upload.

 

 

after you have found your picture, you will be brought back to the same screen, next click the "submit image" button located right under the "browse" button that you just pushed. (you can see it in the picture above)

 

now you have a pic!!

 

 

next you want to RIGHT CLICK on the picture, and you will see this:

 

 

choose "view image info" and the information page for your pic will come up on your screen.

 

 

your target is the address beside the word "location". copy this address. (left click and hold with your mouse while highlighting the entire address, then right click and choose "copy")

 

once you have the address copied, you are ready to post. in your "reply to post" area, you will see this icon:

 

 

that is your "insert image" icon. click on it, and a little address bar opens up. this is where you want to paste the address that you just copied. (right click on your mouse and choose "paste")

 

 

after you have pasted the address in the box, click on "insert image" and WOOOHOOO!!

 

 

 

if anything is confusing please let me know and i will describe it differently.

[Grow Thread]

THE LUCAS METHOD

 

the "Lucas Method" is very simple, cheap, and it obviously works as is evident in the pics in this thread. we only need 2 kinds of nutes. General Hydroponic Flora Micro and General Hydroponic Flora Bloom.

 

 

here is the formula:

 

VEG: 5ml of Micro and 10ml of Bloom per gallon of water. (5-10) IF VEGGING UNDER CFL LIGHTS

VEG: 8ml of Micro and 16ml of Bloom per gallon of water. (8-16) IF VEGGING UNDER HID LAMPS

FLOWER: 8ml Micro and 16ml of bloom per gallon of water. (8-16)

 

 

there are a couple different methods on backfilling whatever the plants drink/what evaporates. i recommend backfilling with full strength nutes/water as needed to maintain the proper water level in the bucket/tote, and then doing two rez changes throughout the cycle. once at the switch to flower, and once after about 3-4 weeks of flower.

 

 

---and here is a "normal" schedule for a plant:

 

seedling/clone/veg 2-4 weeks. 8-16 nutes. 1/2 strength for first few days for seedlings. 5-10 nutes under flourescent lights

when it is time to flip the lights to 12/12 i dump everything and flush. flush=just plain ph'd water for 24-48 hours.

then they get new water after the flush and continue with 8-16 nutes

after a month i try to flush once again

then back to 8-16 nutes

 

 

after 6 weeks of flower, depending on the strain and how much longer it will need to finish, i have to make a decision. i "final flush" for a week minimum so if i am growing a 7-8 week strain i will go into final flush now. if it is a 8-12 week strain i will go back to 8-16 nutes for as long as needed and then into final flush for the last week or so.

 

 

also, another couple freebie tips. when adding the nutes, add the micro to the water first, and then the bloom. NEVER mix the 2 nutes together and then add the combination to water. this WILL promote lock-out.

 

after adding both nutes (separately of course) STIR/SHAKE WELL!! can't say it enough. make sure you have it all mixed up real good. don't rely on your bubbles to do the mixing for you.

 

the flora micro will stain carpet/clothes if not tended to right away

 

assuming you are starting with r.o. water (ph7) the nutes will drop the ph to a perfect 5.5-6.0. i RARELY have to add ph down to maintain proper levels. at any rate, do whatever needs to be done to maintain a 5.5-6.0ph level. and i keep my water temps at 68-70 degrees.

 

also, for 99 cents ANYWHERE in the kitchen department. (target-walmart) this is my best friend. the turkey baster. perfect for measuring nutes out.

 

 

 

here are another couple ways to work with this formula:

 

1. Top off the reservoir daily using a pH corrected water solution as required to maintain full reservoir level. After adding back an amount of water equal to the amount of your reservoir capacity you should change the reservoir and put in fresh solution.

 

2. Top off the reservoir daily using a pH corrected 100% strength nutrient solution as required to maintain full reservoir level. Continue to use this nutrient solution without dumping the tank unless the PPM rises above acceptable levels.

 

Between vegetative and flowering cycles you should dump your nutrients, then flush (possibly with Clearex) to remove salt buildups, then change to the other feeding program. Always shake your GH nutrient bottles before using them!

 

For young plants, just transplanted into the hydro setup, give them 50% strength nutrient mix to prevent overfeeding them while their young. Gradually bring up the mix to full strength as they grow over the next few days or so.

 

The lucas formula is normally intended for use with RO or near 0 PPM water.

 

NOTE: The Lucas formula eliminates the need for Epsom salts to correct (Magnesium) Mg deficiencies in most normal feeding programs recommended by manufacturers. Cannabis needs a lot of Magnesium to thrive.

 

The Flora Micro is providing the Nitrogen and the Magnesium in the proper balance, thus there is no need for the Grow formula and little or no room under the maximum acceptable ppm limit of 1600 @ 0.7 conversion.

 

Calculated EC/TDS levels:

 

EC microsiemen:

0-4-8: 946 µS

0-5-10: 1184 µS

0-8-16: 1894 µS

 

TDS @ 0.5 conversion:

0-4-8 = 473 ppm

0-5-10 = 592 ppm

0-8-16 = 947 ppm

 

TDS @ 0.7 conversion:

0-4-8 = 663 ppm

0-5-10 = 829 ppm

0-8-16 = 1326 ppm

 

Addback Calculator - (For Advanced Users)

 

Say you were running the 0-8-16 formula, at 0.7 conversion with a 22 gallon res. When you first fill it up, your ppm will be around 1330.

 

Now you have been growing for a week, and some of the water has been taken up by the plants, some has evaporated, and now your res is at 947 ppm. You need to get your ppm from 947 to 1330. Here is the equation:

 

((target - current) / target) * 8 ml per gallon * res gallons = Flora Micro (ml) double this figure to get Flora Bloom (ml)

 

Example:

 

((1330 - 947) / 1330) * 8 * 22

(383 / 1330) * 8 * 22

0.3 * 8 * 22 = 53 ml Flora Micro

 

53 ml Flora Micro, double that and you get 106 ml Flora Bloom. So 53 ml Flora Micro and 106 ml Flora Bloom to add back to your 22 gallon res to get you from 947 to 1330.

 

 

One tip - do not pH down this stuff, the hard water micro will drop pH gradually over the next 24 hours, for example I mix up a batch, it is at like 6.2, the next day, its at 5.6-5.8 after running in the system for a while. If I pH downed that to 5.7 before putting it in the system, it ended up as low as 4.8-5.2 by the next day.

 

______________________

 

** major props and many thanks to Lucas. i have spent countless hours reading his charts and study logs. the man is brilliant.

[TajMahal]

Ahhh....Finally! All the details without wading through all that other stuff

 

Saved and printed

[Grow Thread]

Ahhh....Finally! All the details without wading through all that other stuff

 

Saved and printed

 

always here to help

 

i have had it memorized in my head for so long i completely forgot where i first learned about it. figured it was time to put it down in type.

[Grow Thread]

I've got about a 1/4 of bubba kush thats been sitting in a jar for 2.5 months

 

please be sure all safety harnesses are buckled correctly and in working order. press the bar in front of you firmly down onto your thighs. keep all hands and feet inside the ride until you come to a complete stop.

 

enjoy the ride man.

[MightyMightyMezz]

please be sure all safety harnesses are buckled correctly and in working order. press the bar in front of you firmly down onto your thighs. keep all hands and feet inside the ride until you come to a complete stop.

 

enjoy the ride man.

 

This thread is rockin' BG. I'm thinking in a couple of grows my setup will look like this:

 

Modular scrogs - One net for each plant for easy removal

Air pots - I'm thinking start vegging in the 4" ones and transplant to either 5, 8, or 10 gallon ones. May want to start in the Rootmaker starters.

Twin 6'x11' 240V 4000W HPS flower rooms on a "flipflop" (allows you to use four ballasts for eight lights.)

Light movers for each pair of air-cooled HPS hoods, moving only a couple of feet

Co2 - Maybe natural gas generators in the Winter for heat and tanks in the Summer. I know you don't support it, but I am going to see what's up with it.

Homemade Worm Castings - started a bin about six weeks ago and they are going nuts. Castings and molasses tea with guano and seaweed added as needed.

Tropf Blumat auto watering system - I will probably try this out when I get tired of hand watering.

[Jipo]

Sounds like a helluva lot of work But hard work always pays off!! The only thing is if you're going modular scrog you might be just as good off going a lst/supercropping type grow, The point of scrog imo is to fill alot of space with smaller plants .

[MightyMightyMezz]

Sounds like a helluva lot of work But hard work always pays off!! The only thing is if you're going modular scrog you might be just as good off going a lst/supercropping type grow, The point of scrog imo is to fill alot of space with smaller plants .

 

That might be true. I reason that if a scrog is more efficient in a small space, it will be more efficient in a large space. I think the only limitation and the reason scrog is usually thought of as a micro-grow technique is lack of access to the plants to train, prune and cultivate. If the scrogs are modular (maybe on wheels?) they can be removed from the grow space for total access. I'm 34 days into my first scrog grow right now and the amount of light reaching each bud is awesome. It is a 4'x4' matrix made out of bamboo stakes.

[Grow Thread]

also, i was helping someone build a new room this morning and had to dig these up, so i figured i may as well post them here.

(make it easier to find them next time i need them)

 

 

[MightyMightyMezz]

also, i was helping someone build a new room this morning and had to dig these up, so i figured i may as well post them here.

(make it easier to find them next time i need them)

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have my 1000w HPS below the safe point. I use a 424cfm to air cool it and temps are mid 70's. Plants are definitely digging it. There is only so close you can get before you start losing too much coverage, though.

[Jipo]

Yah my 1000w sits in a 8" cool tube with 750cfm going through it, it tends to stay very cool and quite close to the plants, and I like the full open round glass, I've got the reflectors bent up pretty high over the top and it gives a wide area of coverage while it sits low like that.

[MightyMightyMezz]

Yah my 1000w sits in a 8" cool tube with 750cfm going through it, it tends to stay very cool and quite close to the plants, and I like the full open round glass, I've got the reflectors bent up pretty high over the top and it gives a wide area of coverage while it sits low like that.

 

I was thinking about the cool tubes. It's more efficient to cool than a square reflector, isn't it? darn, is that fan loud? My vortex is loud as hell. I need some of the acoustic ducting for sure. Especially if I add another 1000w or three. In the summer.

[Grow Thread]

[MightyMightyMezz]

 

That is similar to mine. I have the EasyCool 6 from htgs. 1000W digital ballast that has been rock-solid.

[Jipo]

[quote name='MightyMightyMezz' date='12 May 2010 - 01:48 PM' timestamp='1273686511' post='163860']
I was thinking about the cool tubes. It's more efficient to cool than a square reflector, isn't it? Damn, is that fan loud? My vortex is loud as hell. I need some of the acoustic ducting for sure. Especially if I add another 1000w or three. In the summer.
[/quote]

I imagine the tube flows better as well, I more so bought it for the wide exposed area then the efficiancy, the fan sounds like an airplane I got dynamat for cars between it and the stud its mount too, plus so dynamat on the fans housing as well, 8" vortex I believe was the brand, I'm getting a HTG 6" fan I think to run my carbon filter independent from the light ducting because last time I was fully set up I went from carbon filter to Cool tube, cool tube to fan, fan to exhaust hole, and it worked great but I'm thinking that Carbon filter drags the CFM down a bit and if I could get my lamp even cooler that would be great. Plus when I get my house I'm gonna beable to set it up any way I want it'll be a nice blank canvas where as every other place was either setup for me or in a walk in closet that I couldn't modify.

[phaquetoo]

Thank you for all the great info! never to old to learn new tricks!

[Grow Thread]

this is the first time in YEARS that i don't have anything growing.

 

starting to get to me

[Grow Thread]

since this has become a "help of all sorts" thread (and thats totally cool), for those who didnt know, this is how you can see who is in the chat room without entering the room yourself. you must be logged in to do this.

 

click on the "forums" button at the top of the page.

 

 

then just scroll all the way to the bottom

 

[Grow Thread]

...................

[Grow Thread]

GROWING WITH A SCROG (SCREEN OF GREEN)

 

 

see my scrog journal here: http://michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/topic/26776-bubblegrowers-bubble-scrog-screen-of-green/

 

 

So, you want to tackle a scrog do ya? Excellent choice! Scrog or SCREEN OF GREEN is one of the most productive and easiest ways to grow indoors. Now lets not get this confused with the Sea of green method. SOG involves no training nor does it have one item a scrog always has. A screen. Scrog has been around for many years. Before HID's were introduces many used floro's with this method with good success.

Now lets talk about the scrog for a little bit here. What is a scrog? What is screen of green? Well, it is just that. A screen is the main character of scrog. It is usually made of wire or something sturdy enough to hold back the growing canopy. This wire should have some holes in it about 2x2inches in size so that the plant mater can easily grow up through the wire and be supported by it. The wire is secured between the grow medium and the lamp at a distance determined by the size of your lamp. We will get into that later. The plants grow through the screen about 3-4 inches and then are pulled back under and spread out where YOU want them to grow. Its as easy as that folks. Its a great way to grow. Let me put it this way. I have tried untrained methods like SOG and have never come close to the yeild I get with a scrog. Okay, sounds easy right? So, what are you waiting for?

 

Getting Started

This is the hard part. Getting started. Damned if it ain't for me man. I spend hours thinkin of bunny muffin before I do it. lol Anyway, this isnt rocket science. If you've already got an area where you established plants growing you are halfway there.

 

The SCREEN

Remember at least 2x2inch squares. You can use chicken wire as well or even some tightly strug rope but I would suggest wire. You need something strong to support the buds and hold back the canopy growth. The screen needs to be cut to size. The size of the screen is determined by the size of your lamp. Remember that to get the good bud formation you want from 50 watts per square foot so your screen size should not exceed that. Check the examples below.

 

150hps screen size 1.75ft x 1.75ft

 

250hps screen size 2.25ft x 2.25ft

 

400hps screen size 2.91ft x 2.75ft

 

600hps screen size 3.45ft x 3.45ft

 

1000hps screen size 4.4ft x 4.5ft

 

If your screen exceeds the 50wpsf thing alittle. Thats perfectly okay. Just dont overdoit. lol Now once you've determined the size of your screen and cut it to size. Situate it over your grow area and secure it into place. Just a few screws will hold it in place. Your mounting a screen. Not a twenty pound wall painting. lol.....Wait just a minute! You need to figure out where to set the screen. First, a few questions to ask. Is your lamp air cooled and what size is your lamp? These two questions determine how close you can get to your canopy. This is very important stuff. The closer you get the better off you are. If you do not have air cooled lamps then a simple fan blowing between the canopy and the the lamp should do the trick. Okay, now lets set that screen. Here's some examples of screen settings for hps's. These are not exact settings. They are just a baseline idea. If you can get your lamp closer. Good for you. If you can't. Thats okay too. Dont worry. If you've got the right watts per footage they will produce.

 

150hps 10-12 inches

250hps 12-15 inches

400hps 16-20 inches

600hps 20+

1000hps 24+

 

Your Plants

How Many Will I Need Under The Screen? Usually the rule is one plant per square foot of screen. I go with as few plants as I can whenever possible. One side of my flower chamber is almost 3x3ft. Thats almost 9 sqft. I only have 6 plants under there and the screens are pretty full. So, the rule does not always need to be followed. Having less plants can be a good thing if they happen to discover your illegal activity..lol.....Remember with fewer plants you will have to veg a bit longer but be patient and hang in there. Its well worth the wait.

 

Spacing Lets talk about the spacing between the plant medium and the screen. This space will need to be large enough to allow you room to manipulate your plants during the training phase. I usually use around 8 inches. Some people use more/less. Eight seems to be just enough for me but when working in a 3x3ft space it is still a tight space for a big guy. lol.....

 

What Is The Best Strain To Grow In A Scrog? Now lets talk about your plants alittle bit. What kind should you be growing in a scrog you ask? Hmmmmm. Well, any kind your heart desires my friend. That's right. Most any plant strain can be grown without much difficulty using a scrog. The secret is in the screen. Some strains require more training than others but that is the only difference. Heavy yeild indica's are excellent scrog candidates but the unruley sativa can really shine with proper training and timing.

 

Hydro or Soil?

 

So, how are you going to do this scrog? Is it going to bubble, flow or just sit there? Here's some things you may consider before your plants get tangled up in the screen.

 

Hydro: No real problem here. I prefer to scrog with a bubbler system over soil anyday. The problem lies in the flush. I explain below.

Soil: Soil grows and scrogs are a wonderful thing. Orgainc buds rule. One problem I ran into when scroging with soil was the flushing of the medium at the end of the grow. Well, with the plants tangled in the screen. One can not just transport to the sink and flush. My soil buckets drain into catch pans. Then I have to drain the catch pans. Takes a while but it works. Hydro is much easier though.

 

Okay man, you just did something that will almost double your yeild in the next sixty days. So, how do you feel about that? The screen is set. Now its time to move on to other things. Lets take a look at whats going to happen when these babies start to grow through the screen.

 

Managing the Scrog Grow

You have done some things that are a little out of the ordinary from your usual grow regiem. Things look a little different. A wire screen has invaded your grow space and it looks weird in there. Maybe you even have a few inches growth through the screen. What in the flower am I gonna do now? lol.......Be cool man. Here's where the real fun begins and were the beauty of scrog growing starts.

 

Vegging: Here is where alot of people make mistakes. They get in a fired up hurry and get confused somehow. Flip their bunny muffin over to 12/12 way to soon and wonder why their screen never filled up. At that point the screen is nothing more than a support system for the plant. Normally one would veg a plant till the screen is 70-80 percent full before switching over to the flowering cycle. Having knowlege of how much your strain stretches is helpful when determining when to switch to flowering. For example: If one had a very stretchy sativa. You would want to start flowering her with much less of the screen filled. Just the opposite for a nice stunted indica. Timing has alot to do with scrog. We go over that soon.

 

Pulling It Back Through: Okay, so you've got some growth through the screen. Should have about 3-4 inches aye? Don't be a who-who here. lol....... If it breaks. I'll explain what to do later. Reach under the screen and pull that branch back under the screen and place it where you want it to be. Even if it takes tying it in place with the plastic twisty ties. Now I could really get technical and bunny muffin and start with the be sure there is an internode in each hole of the screen but it really doesnt matter man. Just get the growth under the screen first. In the next few weeks. You will see were to guide the new growth to best suit your needs.

 

Training: This can seem brutal to some. lol........ Scrog is not natural growth for the cannabis plant. I am sure of that. It must stress the bunny muffin out of them the whole cycle of life. Imagine taking a plant that usually grows anywhere from 3-12 feet and making it grow in a space no larger than 2 foot. Training begings in the pulling it back through section. Try to situate your main branches towards the barest parts of your screen. They will branch out the most and usually be the largest bud in the bunch. Use some kind of uniformity to your laying out of the branches. Crisscross/ zigzag whatever you use. Remember theres are going to be alot more branching when flowering kicks in high gear. So allow some room for that as well. Lesser buds that are now exposed to more light are then encouraged to grow upwards toward the screen through some leaf triming. An often debated subject but one I feel that is usefull in the scrog method.

 

Leaf Trimming: Now we need to chat about a touchy subject. Leaf triming. Like I said above. Scrog aint natural for cannabis. At least I dont think it is. Crammed in such a small area with all those leaves. Well, somethings gotta give and its not going to be bud. lol......Here's my rule on trimming. If the leaf is in the way of light for a bud site. Then it needs to be removed. Sometimes I tuck the leaf instead of removing it but most of the time I remove it. Now, when do I do this? Usually when I do a training session. Right afterwards. This trims away leaves and allows the new sites to get light. You will be surprised at how fast they will respond. Use good judgement when trimming. To much is not a good thing here.

Trimming continues into flowering ending during the later stages of flowering. I have found it not to be harmful at all to remove large fan leaves from buds during flowering. If they are blocking light to other bud sites near by. Its all about light penetration and bud sites in a scrog.

 

Timing: Timing is critical when it comes to a scrog grow. You must be paying attention to the progress of your grow in order to know when to induce flowering. Knowing what strain you are dealing with and what the growing characteristices of the plant are is very helpful when it comes to timing. I cant express the importance of having a good clone base for this purpose. As mentioned above if you induce flowering to early. You will have alot less of a yield. However, if one was to wait to long. The same can happen as well. An overcrowed canopy is just as much a mess. An out of control scrog is just that. A mess. Not something you want to deal with. Remember, the plants you start to flower are probably going to double in size. Stand back and get a visual picture of that in your head. Ask yourself some questions. If I start flowering now. Can I visualize how big they will get? Do I have enough veggative growth to start flowering? Do I have to much? Is it time? Time to start flowering?

Okay, so you've decided to start. Bravo! You are going to be amazed at the buds that come out of this grow. lol....... So, you have turned back the timer to 12/12 and it has been 4 days now. The growth from the stretch is starting to show. You get in there and pull all those new shoots back under your screen and put them where you want them to be. A few more days pass. More growth. Now the decision part comes into play. Just how far over the screen do you want your buds to be? If you stop training them early in the stretch. They will grow alittle above the screen (maybe 3-6inches depending on the strian). If you continue trianing them until they start to top out. They will grow only alittle more and most of the bud will form right in the screen. This technique is great for those stetchy sativa's. However when doing this method keep an eye out for mold and try to have as much air flow between the buds as possible. I have done it both ways and they are both awsome. It may take you a grow or two to get the timing down to where you want it but once you do. I am sure you will be pleased with the results.

 

Clones/Seed Grows: Here's an interesting topic that is sure to generate a few questions. I suggest clones for scrog growing over seed anyday of the year. Why? With clones you usually already know the characteristics of the plant and how it will perform. With seed its usually a guessing game as to which pheno your going to get unless they are true F1 seed. Plus with seed you dont know the sex yet. Ever tried untangling a male from a screen? Not something I would suggest doing. lol......Anyways, if you grow from seed. Be sure you have cloned the lot and know who your girls are first before going under the screen. This will save you alot of hassle later on.

 

Damage Control: If you move branches around and bend'em. Eventually somethings gonna give. Dont freakout. Its not the end of the world man.....lol... Cannabis is an amazing plant that can recover from alot of damage naturally without help from humans but in this case ya want to help if ya can. First aid for the injured cannabis plant is simple as pie man. Just support her wound and leave her alone. She will take care of it on her own. Unless you break her completely in half she can be saved usually. You can splint the wound or support it with some heavy gauge wire around the stem. If the break is not that bad and the branch can somewhat support itself. Leave it alone. In all cases. A knot will form at the break and most times an explosion of growth will happen above the damaged area. At times even new growth sometimes sprouts from the knuckle formed.

 

Flowering Cycle: Once a few trimmings are done and all is set in place flowering in a scrog is pretty uneventful. lol......Good time to start thinning out your undergrowth. I take clones around 20 days 12/12. If all that I need root. I clean out the undergrowth around day 35 12/12. Now if I need anymore clones. I can tak'em at this time. All the rest. Its butter makin time........Oh yeah.......churn dat budda........talk about a bonus for all your hard work.

 

Undergrowth: I mentioned it above but thought I should mention it again. The undergrowth is not that big of an issue here. Its an area that should be kept clear of dead leaves and you should also ensure that proper ventilation can get through the canopy via the undergrowth. If it cant. Then thin out some growth. This is an area that is dim and often humid. An open invitation for not so good things to come visiting aye? Some people have mentioned putting a light down there. Why? There's no need for a light down there. There are no buds to be harvested there. Just stems that support the canopy. If one were to put a light there they would just be adding to the congestion of leaves already growing. Not good. It is a good idea to clear out your undergrowth as your scrog takes shape and you have taken the clones that you need for the next grow. Trim all remaining sprouts left on the stems and any other undergrowth. Now lets not get to crazy here. Leave a little growth. Use some common sense here. Take out the sites you know are not going to make it to maturity. This will help the plant direct more energy towards the larger buds instead of wasting energy on the smaller ones.

 

Ventilation: Here's an issue that can not be overlooked. Once a scrog has been established it is a leafy sight to behold. Air circulation becomes critical as the buds begin to form and things start to get packed in the box. 24hr air movement is suggested 7 days a week. Better safe than sorry. Mold sucks.

 

Even Canopy: Maybe I should not put it in those words. Your canopy does not have to be perfectly even. Just close. The idea behind this is even light distribution. We are looking for a field of buds here not a forest like in SOG. If a dominate bud is allowed to overtake the canopy. It is defeating the purpose of the scrog. Tame that complain. Bring her down to size with the rest. You want a somewhat even field of buds to deal with. Not a forest of untamed trees. The even canopy is easy to accomplish if you have been following the steps outlined above.

TrickyTip: Occasionally you will have a stretcher that decides that she wants more light than the rest of her friends. This often happens when the branches are competing for light. If one gets out of hand there is a simple solution to taming her back into the fold of the others and possibly giving her a burst of growth. Reach under the screen and find her stem. Half way up her stem start to pull her back through the canopy till she is even with the rest. Now where she is bent. Crush her at the bend with your fingers. Dont smash it in half. Just crush the stem so as it would not be able to support itself if it were to stand alone. As mentioned above. It will heal with vigor and you have solved your canopy problem.

 

The Beautiful and Productive SCROG

 

I cant express the joy I get from growing with this wonderful method. Through the years I have tried many ways but have never found a more productive growing method. I hope by passing on this information. Others will be more motivated to start their own scrog grow. If done correctly. I can almost gaurentee you will get more yield using the scrog than using the method you use right now. Considering the cost of electricity today. Getting the most out of your grow is the best way to go in my book. Good luck in all your goals and dreams. Give scrog a try. I doubt you will be disappointed.

 

[Nemosity]

Wow bubblegrower! That's some tight stuff! I been wondering about this very thing. Thank you so much for posting this. I will have to read it over and over again until I know I can do it. Can I do this with a soil grow? If so, what size container would you recommend? 5gal? It sounds like you are just trying to spread out the branches and keep them all about the same height, right? Do you have to tie them down at all, or just pull them back down and affix something to hold them there? I know I should reread this over, and I will but now I am just excited to actually know what SCROG is!

 

 

edit: after looking at the picture again, do you just pull the higher ones down through a different hole? or the same hole it came up through? If you weave it into the scrog, then I think I may have understood it right. If that makes sense! lol It's only 230 in the morning, but my brain went to sleep four hours ago. lol

[Grow Thread]

Wow bubblegrower! That's some tight stuff! I been wondering about this very thing. Thank you so much for posting this. I will have to read it over and over again until I know I can do it. Can I do this with a soil grow? If so, what size container would you recommend? 5gal? It sounds like you are just trying to spread out the branches and keep them all about the same height, right? Do you have to tie them down at all, or just pull them back down and affix something to hold them there? I know I should reread this over, and I will but now I am just excited to actually know what SCROG is!

 

 

edit: after looking at the picture again, do you just pull the higher ones down through a different hole? or the same hole it came up through? If you weave it into the scrog, then I think I may have understood it right. If that makes sense! lol It's only 230 in the morning, but my brain went to sleep four hours ago. lol

 

sounds like you got it. the weave is the way to go. after a top grows about 2-3 inches through the screen its time to start weaving/bending her back through. there is no real pattern. it gets ugly and messy, but i PROMISE you that you will have monster "per plant" harvests.

[CannabisPatient#1]

I purchased a used sun systems 1000 HPS. It came with a used bulb that had an unknown length of use. The light burned out in two days. I bought a new Eye Hortilux HPS bulb and just screwed it in. The light did not start up. What can be going on here? Do hydroponic shops test lights for viability? I was at work when the used light burned out. The ballast could have been on with a burned out bulb for up to 8 hours. Could this have hurt my ballast? please help...I am freaking out a little.

 

I have my flowering ladies under 4 4 foot floros with three warm 18 watt CFL so they should stay alive and growing, but I know they would really beef out under a 1000 HPS.

 

I was wondering if I should leave this webbed lady in this same pot until harvest or should I transplant? She is about day 38 of flower now. I realize now that I should have transplanted before flowering.

pictures from day 35 flower

She tied down very easy. Her braches grow out horizontally not on an angle up vertically. I was thinking that she would make a great SCROG plant.

 

This seed came from a bag long ago. I tried to only keep seeds worth saving. Why is it webbed? What could it be?

 

Also do flowers usually grow on fan leaf stems? I have never seen this before. It is kinda weird. Is this a mutant too?

 

 

I was thinking that the structure on this lovely lady was sativaish. Is that right? My whole grow now is from seeds saved over the years. I have no idea what they are. Any ideas on the one above or this one?

she is only about 20 days into flower (below). Should I transplant them into bigger pots?

 

http://www.michiganmedicalmarijuana.org/uploads/1273720218/med_gallery_12686_91_2332716.jpg

 

I was liking the structure and unique webbed leaves of the first plant so I made a couple of air layers after I it sprouted hairs. I am reverting them now in veg. The leaves make her kinda stealthy while in veg. Her smell is the most faint cannabis plant smell that I have ever encountered. It is very minty with just a hint of spice.

 

Sorry about asking all of these questions at once, but I felt that it was time to get a bit of help.

Thanks,

Blake

[Grow Thread]

hi blake.

 

well, i have never worked in a hydro store, but i think the answer is no, they do not test every lamp before they ship them i really don't know how to help ya on the light situation here. are you sure that your already used ballast didnt get beat up even more in shipping and just give up after a couple days?? i have never used a sun system light...... is there a fuse on the ballast??

 

yeah, you should have transplanted earlier. i would now anyways. more roots = more meds.

 

i have seen calyx develop on the secondary stems before. no it is not a mutant.

 

i don't see what you mean about "webbing"?

 

everything else looks fine. looking good!! yeah, go with bigger pots from the beginning next time and you will see quite a difference

[MightyMightyMezz]

Havin' a fit there, BG?

 

About the webbing - look at the leaves on his plant. They're all webbed and bunny muffin. I believe there is a strain called Duck's Foot that is prized for having this trait. It's supposed to be stealthy because it does not have the normal leaf shape.