The biggest benefit of this method is.......it's virtually free!
To make a hempy bucket is simple, all you need to do is this:
Get a bucket.
The size of the bucket can vary from 1gal(4lt) to 5gal(20lt).
Hempys' preferred size is a 2.5gl bucket, I use 5 gal for monster plants
Drill a drain hole in the side of the bucket about 2 inches from the bottom.
The drain hole should be 7/16". I've had better luck with 1/2" and larger perlite
The grow medium is perlite/vermiculite. I generally nix the Vermiculite as I notice it slows the rate at which the roots hit the bottom of the bucket due to the wick effect, but it makes things a little less high maintanence for the first week or two while waiting for the roots to make contact.
3 parts perlite to 1 part vermiculite.
You can use volcanic rocks (Hydroton) but the perlite/vermiculite is the preferred method.
Once you have your seedling sprouted fill the bucket with plain water every day until the tap root has reached the standing water that always remains in the bottom of the bucket. this will take about 10-14 days after the bean sprouts. If you use clones, plant the stem in the middle of the bucket as it will shorten time for roots to hit the bottom, however you loose space for the root ball by lowering the stem, if your in rockwool or anything like that what I like to do is bury the rockwool about 1" from the top of the perlite so it has a little support on the stem but allows the most space for the root mass, upon harvest you will be amazed with the size of the root mass! Also what I've been tending to do recently is water directly down the stem of the plant until you know it hit bottom, and trust me you will know when it hits the bottom, I also use PH'd and Nutrient filled water every other day w/ root stimulates, I've noticed this tends to speed things up but you don't want to let the salts build up in the bottom so when you water with fresh water use alot to run off the standing water at the bottom of the bucket.
Completely fill the Hempy Bucket with plain water, every two-three feedings. This will stop all the nutrients from going stale and building up salts in the bottom.
Use water that has been open overnight to allow the chlorine to escape, unless you can afford to buy filtered or distilled water..
Fill your water bucket or whatever you use to water with JUST water, no nutes, or PH until the following day, Add the nutrient solution to this water bucket and then adjust the ph to 6.0 For best results use an accurate ph meter and follow the nutes mfg reccomended amounts very carefully. Use precise measuring devices to make your nute solution.
Once your roots hit the bottom you will notice a much faster rate of growth and at this point is when you want to begin full strength feeding always, I like to add water/nute mix every 2 days, however I never let it get dry, you could water in theory every 5-7 days depening on the feeding rate of your plant, when I water I move the bucket to a utility sink or drain and I add until there is a little bit of run off allow it to level out
The strenght of your nutes depends on several factors such as how much light you have, humidity, CO2, strain your growing. You will have to use judgement, If your plant looks under fed or unhealthy add more nutrients, generally your mfg feeding schedule is going to be the safest bet without over feeding or burning, If you notice what looks like burnt tips on your leaves your under feeding. also look up plant deficiencies and get a feeling for what different defiencies look like since your medium isn't soil it will provide 0 anything for the plant. make sure to have a good line of nutrients, I always use 3 part nutes, Veg, Bloom and Micro and have had good results, I also use additives like Superthrive and other planet essential vitamins.
thats about it. Its a pretty simple way of having a passive hydroponic grow, I only use organic nutrients with my plants as well, I have had extremely impressive results compared to soil grows of identical clones side by side and I haven't looked back since.