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#1 dotinthebox

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Posted 31 August 2010 - 05:29 AM

hello all i am looking for some oil. if u know where i can get some let me know. i live in the thumb area but will travel for some . please pm me with any help i am on here daily.

#2 KathywithaK

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Posted 31 August 2010 - 08:32 AM

hello all i am looking for some oil. if u know where i can get some let me know. i live in the thumb area but will travel for some . please pm me with any help i am on here daily.

its not easy to find its usually not for sale because its already someones medicine.a good idea would be learn to make your own.huge need for it wish everybody knew how to make it.HEY!lets teach the world to make simpson oil.wouldnt that be great? peace

#3 the green leaf farmacy

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Posted 31 August 2010 - 08:34 AM

hello all i am looking for some oil. if u know where i can get some let me know. i live in the thumb area but will travel for some . please pm me with any help i am on here daily.

talk to budhabit or penutbutter they can tell you more

#4 Buck Naykid

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Posted 31 August 2010 - 10:31 AM

talk to budhabit or penutbutter they can tell you more

Yeah they have a class regularly on makeing it.. I want to attend the next class also!

#5 Grow Thread

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Posted 31 August 2010 - 10:38 AM

http://michiganmedic...pson-oil-class/

for classes or oil i presume :)


#6 StonedPlanet

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Posted 31 August 2010 - 10:41 AM

It is VERY easy to make..

1oz of reggies
2 bottles of 99% Isopropyl Alcohol

Chop the reggies up as good as you can, then put it into a pan. Add a full bottle of the alcohol and let it soak for 2 days mixing it up occassionally..
Once it has soaked for long enough, you will need to stain the plant material out of it. Coffee filters work great for this!
Place the liquid into a big glass tray.. The bigger the better because it will allow more surface area for the evaporation to take place faster!
Pour the other bottle of alcohol into the pan with the leaf material and let it soak again..

Should take about 36 hours or less for the alcohol to evaporate with a decent amount of air flow..
You will want to do it a second time because the first bottle will not get ALL of the stuff you need out of the plant material..

I have seen this method used with an immature MALE plant with GOOD results!

Once the alcohol is evaporated you have your oil! Using a hot knife is your best method of using the oil.

#7 Grow Thread

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Posted 31 August 2010 - 10:45 AM

It is VERY easy to make..

1oz of reggies
2 bottles of 99% Isopropyl Alcohol

Chop the reggies up as good as you can, then put it into a pan. Add a full bottle of the alcohol and let it soak for 2 days mixing it up occassionally..
Once it has soaked for long enough, you will need to stain the plant material out of it. Coffee filters work great for this!
Place the liquid into a big glass tray.. The bigger the better because it will allow more surface area for the evaporation to take place faster!
Pour the other bottle of alcohol into the pan with the leaf material and let it soak again..

Should take about 36 hours or less for the alcohol to evaporate with a decent amount of air flow..
You will want to do it a second time because the first bottle will not get ALL of the stuff you need out of the plant material..


what you are making there is qwiso........ and doing it wrong too :(

#8 StonedPlanet

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Posted 31 August 2010 - 01:19 PM

what you are making there is qwiso........ and doing it wrong too :(

enlighten me ;)
which part of that is wrong? seems to have turned out perfect everytime..

#9 ladyherb

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Posted 31 August 2010 - 08:54 PM

i hate to try my first batch with a full oz........ will it work with trim?

#10 Grow Thread

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 08:59 AM

enlighten me ;)
which part of that is wrong? seems to have turned out perfect everytime..


qwiso. quick wash in iso alcohol.

the goal here is just the opposite of what you are doing. leaving rubbing alcohol in contact with plant matter and THC for a long period of time does 2 things. begins to break down THC and begins to "suck out" plant matter and not just THC.

the goal is to do it quick. quicker the better.

i put both my iso and my trimmings/lowers/buds whatever in the freezer overnight. the cold helps knock the heads off the trichomes. thats what we want.

fill a mason jar 3/4 full with the cold trimmings. then fill with cold iso just enough to cover. put the lid on and shake like hell for 30 seconds. then strain as you normally do.

this will make your hash more brown and less green. more solid and less sticky. and as always, the better trimmings you start with, the better end product you have.

edit:

99% alcohol or better. the rubbing alcohol will dissolve quick.... the leftover water wont.

#11 bobandtorey

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 09:12 AM

http://www.marijuana...ana-bust-video/

#12 budhabit

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 10:33 AM

The Tri- City Compassion Club in Saginaw is still continuing with the Cannabis cures Project which basically means we are providing Simpson oil to a select few patients for free currently we are successfully treating a man with prostate cancer and it appears he may be cured by the end of the year so we are currently interviewing for more patients to assist this service of obtaining the Simpson Oil is free of charge all that we require is that the Patient Keep a video log of there progression and that they are registered Medical Marijuana Patients You can contact me at 989 607 0384 Also any Caregivers interested helping with this project so we can help more patients feel free to contact me

#13 budhabit

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 10:49 AM

Hi just want to inform every one that we are no longer are having classes or charging for classes we just simply get together about 2 times a month to make it those that are interested in learning on how to make it and would like to attend the next time we make it feel free to contact me

quote name='Buck Naked' timestamp='1283268675' post='201286']
Yeah they have a class regularly on makeing it.. I want to attend the next class also!
[/quote]

#14 greenhouse

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 10:52 AM

qwiso. quick wash in iso alcohol.

the goal here is just the opposite of what you are doing. leaving rubbing alcohol in contact with plant matter and THC for a long period of time does 2 things. begins to break down THC and begins to "suck out" plant matter and not just THC.

the goal is to do it quick. quicker the better.

i put both my iso and my trimmings/lowers/buds whatever in the freezer overnight. the cold helps knock the heads off the trichomes. thats what we want.

fill a mason jar 3/4 full with the cold trimmings. then fill with cold iso just enough to cover. put the lid on and shake like hell for 30 seconds. then strain as you normally do.

this will make your hash more brown and less green. more solid and less sticky. and as always, the better trimmings you start with, the better end product you have.

edit:

99% alcohol or better. the rubbing alcohol will dissolve quick.... the leftover water wont.



I respectfully disagree.


I have made the Simpson Oil, well over 30 batches now. And with mixed results, I have learned quite a bit and am willing to share it for free.

First a few points to consider:
1. ONLY use cannabis from a trusted source. You CAN and WILL end up with pesticides in a solvent extraction. Then you can say to your patient, "here's your Azamax laced strain," or, "here's your DoktorDoom Simpson oil."

2. No making whoopee smoking, and don't do this process medicated.

3. If using isopropyl, get it from Meijer's, 99%, costs 1.49 regular, 1.29 sometimes on sale for 16 fluid oz. You'll need about 1 bottle per ounce, roughly.

I will make Simpson Oil for you, and any one else, for the price of the solvent, time and delivery gas (or you pick it up). Nothing more. Depending on batch size, a small 1 oz. run can cost as little as 3-4 bucks in solvent for a person to make. (Your bud/plant material of course.) The yield will be approx. 2-3 grams or ml of oil per ounce of plant material.

About 16 oz. solvent, ethanol or propan-2-ol (isopropyl alcohol) should be used per ounce of plant material, less if it's all leaves. Some for the wash some for the rinse.

It's a matter of personal choice, the time of extraction.


With regards to the quick wash, please do not discourage people from extracting more of the plant materials.

Leaving plant material in the isopropyl alcohol will not break down the THC, in any measurable way. Please, read up on functional groups, solubility, molecular polarity, etc. I suppose if you leave it long enough entropy will win, but chaos takes "forever" because it never quits.

Chemical reactions are a function of heat too. Heat is a measure of random kinetic energy, or random movement of bodies in a system. More heat = quicker reaction time. Freezing the plant material may reduce the yield, unless allowed to return to the warmer temp. You increase the bond affinity of THC and water by freezing, thus strengthening one bond we are trying to break. The OH in our cannabinoid COOH. Dislodging of the trichomes in the freezer is unnecessary in this case. Were this a hash making venture, it may be beneficial, however we'll let the solvent do the dislodging.

The recommended alcohols are not strong enough solvents to disassociate the THC molecule.

THC and THCA are are non-polar (in water), the mixture with alcohol is just that, a separable, polar mixture not a pure substance resulting from a chemical reaction from the two. So the two don't become one resulting in a NEW chemical. The polar
alcohol molecules surround the cannabinoids forming a "protective shell" if you will.

Ethanol vs. propan-2-ol:

Ethanol is food grade, and if ingested will cause stupidity. (Only food grade should be considered, let me clarify.)
Isopropy, if ingested will cause isopropyl poising.

Here's the big BUTT, BUT! isopropyl has a longer carbon chain resulting in a higher electronegativity of the solution, thus "pulling" more THC more quickly into solution than the ethanol. Due to the larger carbon chain, we'll see that propan-2-ol can hold more cannabinoids at the same molarity of solution than ethanol.

Boiling points:

C2H6O - ethanol 173F
C3H80 - propan-2-ol 181F

So there's not much advantage to ethanol, unless the chemist does not fully boil off the solvent, then you got trouble with isopropyl. Big fat making whoopee trouble named bubba in your gut.


I'll just start from the beginning.

Has to be bone dry. (ensures as much THCA is knocked down to THC as can be) Heat plant material in an oven at 160-170 degrees Farenheit. (turn oven on to warm up, turn it off then put plant material on a cookie sheet to dry in OFF oven.)

Place dried plant material in a glass or stainless steel container. Add alcohol to cover plus a little extra, crush plant material if you haven't already. I like to use the big quart canning jars, wide mouth. You can cap and shake it to mix. They'll hold about 2 oz. effectively if dried and crushed.

Shake the hell out of it, or soak for as long as you like, I don't let it sit longer than an hour, and have rinsed in as little as three minutes following the extraction. Personal preference. Period.

In a longer extraction, as well as with the addition of leafy material, whether it be trim or fan leaves with chlorophyll, the result will be a greener oil. More waxes, heavier molecules, and pigments will solute.

Zero worries, IF your using pesticide free and mold free cannabis from a trusted source, you will be better than fine, you'll be laughing.

Filter now if desired.

Boil off most of the alcohol in a slow cooker, no open flame, no red hot elements allowed. Period. No smoking, no vaporizing. No rubbing your hands together really fast in anticipation of the oil being done soon, you may start a friction fire... lol
*OUTDOORS only! unless you have an exhaust system designed for evacuating volatiles, you better do it outside and keep your fans away too!

Add a few drops of RO water near the end, it should prevent the cannabinoids from volatilizing, and keep the temp at 200.

When almost all of the solvent is gone, transfer to a ramekin or something similar, stainless cup, ceramic dish, something heat resistant you can first heat, then easily scrape with an implement to remove the residuals at the very end.

Slowly heat the mixture (a coffee machine carafe heater or similar works well) until it stops bubbling, it is necessary to stir it at this point due to the viscosity of the extract. Stirring will facilitate bond breaking and bubble breaking.

Never let the oil temp rise above 190 F.

When finished, draw up into needless syringes, (free at Target pharmacy) or leave in the cup.
Hold syringe in hand to warm a bit before dispensing, it will push out easier, or soak the syringe in a glass of hot water.

If it all comes together like it should, you'll be left with a very nice, pesticide-free, true natural medicine.

Cancer patients need to ingest in high quantities to reach a cannabinoid concentration sufficient for the body to use for health purposes. Up to a gram per day I heard, but that's not been researched enough from what I can find. And their medicine should be made with the whole plant. You want all the cannabinoids, not just THC.

If your goal is just to get high, try a dry tumble hash extraction perhaps. Or just stick to buds. Smoking the oil is not good for you in any way. Eat it.


It really pays to do your research before making something someone gonna put in their body, especially if it's marketed as medicine.



Zero naptha. Period. Just not worth the cancer from benzene.

Do your reading, take your time. Never rush the process, please exercise extreme caution when working with heated alcohols, they're not your friend.



Sorry folks I get a bit over the top when the oil comes up. Too many mistakes can be made, and can be harmful.

#15 Grow Thread

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 10:58 AM

I respectfully disagree.


I have made the Simpson Oil, well over 30 batches now. And with mixed results, I have learned quite a bit and am willing to share it for free.

First a few points to consider:
1. ONLY use cannabis from a trusted source. You CAN and WILL end up with pesticides in a solvent extraction. Then you can say to your patient, "here's your Azamax laced strain," or, "here's your DoktorDoom Simpson oil."

2. No making whoopee smoking, and don't do this process medicated.

3. If using isopropyl, get it from Meijer's, 99%, costs 1.49 regular, 1.29 sometimes on sale for 16 fluid oz. You'll need about 1 bottle per ounce, roughly.

I will make Simpson Oil for you, and any one else, for the price of the solvent, time and delivery gas (or you pick it up). Nothing more. Depending on batch size, a small 1 oz. run can cost as little as 3-4 bucks in solvent for a person to make. (Your bud/plant material of course.) The yield will be approx. 2-3 grams or ml of oil per ounce of plant material.

About 16 oz. solvent, ethanol or propan-2-ol (isopropyl alcohol) should be used per ounce of plant material, less if it's all leaves. Some for the wash some for the rinse.

It's a matter of personal choice, the time of extraction.


With regards to the quick wash, please do not discourage people from extracting more of the plant materials.

Leaving plant material in the isopropyl alcohol will not break down the THC, in any measurable way. Please, read up on functional groups, solubility, molecular polarity, etc. I suppose if you leave it long enough entropy will win, but chaos takes "forever" because it never quits.

Chemical reactions are a function of heat too. Heat is a measure of random kinetic energy, or random movement of bodies in a system. More heat = quicker reaction time. Freezing the plant material may reduce the yield, unless allowed to return to the warmer temp. You increase the bond affinity of THC and water by freezing, thus strengthening one bond we are trying to break. The OH in our cannabinoid COOH. Dislodging of the trichomes in the freezer is unnecessary in this case. Were this a hash making venture, it may be beneficial, however we'll let the solvent do the dislodging.

The recommended alcohols are not strong enough solvents to disassociate the THC molecule.

THC and THCA are are non-polar (in water), the mixture with alcohol is just that, a separable, polar mixture not a pure substance resulting from a chemical reaction from the two. So the two don't become one resulting in a NEW chemical. The polar
alcohol molecules surround the cannabinoids forming a "protective shell" if you will.

Ethanol vs. propan-2-ol:

Ethanol is food grade, and if ingested will cause stupidity. (Only food grade should be considered, let me clarify.)
Isopropy, if ingested will cause isopropyl poising.

Here's the big BUTT, BUT! isopropyl has a longer carbon chain resulting in a higher electronegativity of the solution, thus "pulling" more THC more quickly into solution than the ethanol. Due to the larger carbon chain, we'll see that propan-2-ol can hold more cannabinoids at the same molarity of solution than ethanol.

Boiling points:

C2H6O - ethanol 173F
C3H80 - propan-2-ol 181F

So there's not much advantage to ethanol, unless the chemist does not fully boil off the solvent, then you got trouble with isopropyl. Big fat making whoopee trouble named bubba in your gut.


I'll just start from the beginning.

Has to be bone dry. (ensures as much THCA is knocked down to THC as can be) Heat plant material in an oven at 160-170 degrees Farenheit. (turn oven on to warm up, turn it off then put plant material on a cookie sheet to dry in OFF oven.)

Place dried plant material in a glass or stainless steel container. Add alcohol to cover plus a little extra, crush plant material if you haven't already. I like to use the big quart canning jars, wide mouth. You can cap and shake it to mix. They'll hold about 2 oz. effectively if dried and crushed.

Shake the hell out of it, or soak for as long as you like, I don't let it sit longer than an hour, and have rinsed in as little as three minutes following the extraction. Personal preference. Period.

In a longer extraction, as well as with the addition of leafy material, whether it be trim or fan leaves with chlorophyll, the result will be a greener oil. More waxes, heavier molecules, and pigments will solute.

Zero worries, IF your using pesticide free and mold free cannabis from a trusted source, you will be better than fine, you'll be laughing.

Filter now if desired.

Boil off most of the alcohol in a slow cooker, no open flame, no red hot elements allowed. Period. No smoking, no vaporizing. No rubbing your hands together really fast in anticipation of the oil being done soon, you may start a friction fire... lol
*OUTDOORS only! unless you have an exhaust system designed for evacuating volatiles, you better do it outside and keep your fans away too!

Add a few drops of RO water near the end, it should prevent the cannabinoids from volatilizing, and keep the temp at 200.

When almost all of the solvent is gone, transfer to a ramekin or something similar, stainless cup, ceramic dish, something heat resistant you can first heat, then easily scrape with an implement to remove the residuals at the very end.

Slowly heat the mixture (a coffee machine carafe heater or similar works well) until it stops bubbling, it is necessary to stir it at this point due to the viscosity of the extract. Stirring will facilitate bond breaking and bubble breaking.

Never let the oil temp rise above 190 F.

When finished, draw up into needless syringes, (free at Target pharmacy) or leave in the cup.
Hold syringe in hand to warm a bit before dispensing, it will push out easier, or soak the syringe in a glass of hot water.

If it all comes together like it should, you'll be left with a very nice, pesticide-free, true natural medicine.

Cancer patients need to ingest in high quantities to reach a cannabinoid concentration sufficient for the body to use for health purposes. Up to a gram per day I heard, but that's not been researched enough from what I can find. And their medicine should be made with the whole plant. You want all the cannabinoids, not just THC.

If your goal is just to get high, try a dry tumble hash extraction perhaps. Or just stick to buds. Smoking the oil is not good for you in any way. Eat it.


It really pays to do your research before making something someone gonna put in their body, especially if it's marketed as medicine.



Zero naptha. Period. Just not worth the cancer from benzene.

Do your reading, take your time. Never rush the process, please exercise extreme caution when working with heated alcohols, they're not your friend.



Sorry folks I get a bit over the top when the oil comes up. Too many mistakes can be made, and can be harmful.

you are comparing apples to oranges?? my post was in regards to another....... and a member who was using rubbing alcohol..... not inferring that qwiso has anything to do with simpson oil.

because they are as different as apples and oranges. very sorry for any confusion..

#16 Guest_Happy Guy_*

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 11:53 AM

I respectfully disagree.I have made the Simpson Oil, well over 30 batches now. And with mixed results, I have learned quite a bit and am willing to share it for free.First a few points to consider:1. ONLY use cannabis from a trusted source. You CAN and WILL end up with pesticides in a solvent extraction. Then you can say to your patient, "here's your Azamax laced strain," or, "here's your DoktorDoom Simpson oil."2. No making whoopee smoking, and don't do this process medicated.3. If using isopropyl, get it from Meijer's, 99%, costs 1.49 regular, 1.29 sometimes on sale for 16 fluid oz. You'll need about 1 bottle per ounce, roughly. I will make Simpson Oil for you, and any one else, for the price of the solvent, time and delivery gas (or you pick it up). Nothing more. Depending on batch size, a small 1 oz. run can cost as little as 3-4 bucks in solvent for a person to make. (Your bud/plant material of course.) The yield will be approx. 2-3 grams or ml of oil per ounce of plant material.About 16 oz. solvent, ethanol or propan-2-ol (isopropyl alcohol) should be used per ounce of plant material, less if it's all leaves. Some for the wash some for the rinse.It's a matter of personal choice, the time of extraction.With regards to the quick wash, please do not discourage people from extracting more of the plant materials.Leaving plant material in the isopropyl alcohol will not break down the THC, in any measurable way. Please, read up on functional groups, solubility, molecular polarity, etc. I suppose if you leave it long enough entropy will win, but chaos takes "forever" because it never quits.Chemical reactions are a function of heat too. Heat is a measure of random kinetic energy, or random movement of bodies in a system. More heat = quicker reaction time. Freezing the plant material may reduce the yield, unless allowed to return to the warmer temp. You increase the bond affinity of THC and water by freezing, thus strengthening one bond we are trying to break. The OH in our cannabinoid COOH. Dislodging of the trichomes in the freezer is unnecessary in this case. Were this a hash making venture, it may be beneficial, however we'll let the solvent do the dislodging.The recommended alcohols are not strong enough solvents to disassociate the THC molecule.THC and THCA are are non-polar (in water), the mixture with alcohol is just that, a separable, polar mixture not a pure substance resulting from a chemical reaction from the two. So the two don't become one resulting in a NEW chemical. The polaralcohol molecules surround the cannabinoids forming a "protective shell" if you will.Ethanol vs. propan-2-ol:Ethanol is food grade, and if ingested will cause stupidity. (Only food grade should be considered, let me clarify.)Isopropy, if ingested will cause isopropyl poising.Here's the big BUTT, BUT! isopropyl has a longer carbon chain resulting in a higher electronegativity of the solution, thus "pulling" more THC more quickly into solution than the ethanol. Due to the larger carbon chain, we'll see that propan-2-ol can hold more cannabinoids at the same molarity of solution than ethanol.Boiling points:C2H6O - ethanol 173FC3H80 - propan-2-ol 181FSo there's not much advantage to ethanol, unless the chemist does not fully boil off the solvent, then you got trouble with isopropyl. Big fat making whoopee trouble named bubba in your gut.I'll just start from the beginning.Has to be bone dry. (ensures as much THCA is knocked down to THC as can be) Heat plant material in an oven at 160-170 degrees Farenheit. (turn oven on to warm up, turn it off then put plant material on a cookie sheet to dry in OFF oven.)Place dried plant material in a glass or stainless steel container. Add alcohol to cover plus a little extra, crush plant material if you haven't already. I like to use the big quart canning jars, wide mouth. You can cap and shake it to mix. They'll hold about 2 oz. effectively if dried and crushed.Shake the hell out of it, or soak for as long as you like, I don't let it sit longer than an hour, and have rinsed in as little as three minutes following the extraction. Personal preference. Period.In a longer extraction, as well as with the addition of leafy material, whether it be trim or fan leaves with chlorophyll, the result will be a greener oil. More waxes, heavier molecules, and pigments will solute.Zero worries, IF your using pesticide free and mold free cannabis from a trusted source, you will be better than fine, you'll be laughing.Filter now if desired.Boil off most of the alcohol in a slow cooker, no open flame, no red hot elements allowed. Period. No smoking, no vaporizing. No rubbing your hands together really fast in anticipation of the oil being done soon, you may start a friction fire... lol*OUTDOORS only! unless you have an exhaust system designed for evacuating volatiles, you better do it outside and keep your fans away too!Add a few drops of RO water near the end, it should prevent the cannabinoids from volatilizing, and keep the temp at 200. When almost all of the solvent is gone, transfer to a ramekin or something similar, stainless cup, ceramic dish, something heat resistant you can first heat, then easily scrape with an implement to remove the residuals at the very end.Slowly heat the mixture (a coffee machine carafe heater or similar works well) until it stops bubbling, it is necessary to stir it at this point due to the viscosity of the extract. Stirring will facilitate bond breaking and bubble breaking.Never let the oil temp rise above 190 F.When finished, draw up into needless syringes, (free at Target pharmacy) or leave in the cup.Hold syringe in hand to warm a bit before dispensing, it will push out easier, or soak the syringe in a glass of hot water.If it all comes together like it should, you'll be left with a very nice, pesticide-free, true natural medicine.Cancer patients need to ingest in high quantities to reach a cannabinoid concentration sufficient for the body to use for health purposes. Up to a gram per day I heard, but that's not been researched enough from what I can find. And their medicine should be made with the whole plant. You want all the cannabinoids, not just THC.If your goal is just to get high, try a dry tumble hash extraction perhaps. Or just stick to buds. Smoking the oil is not good for you in any way. Eat it.It really pays to do your research before making something someone gonna put in their body, especially if it's marketed as medicine.Zero naptha. Period. Just not worth the cancer from benzene.Do your reading, take your time. Never rush the process, please exercise extreme caution when working with heated alcohols, they're not your friend.Sorry folks I get a bit over the top when the oil comes up. Too many mistakes can be made, and can be harmful.

This individual knows what they are talking about. They have their knowledge honed down into a fine edge. I've made over a hundred batches of iso so far and can vouch for everything said. You sure can tell when someone has actually done it! The only thing I can add is if you could get yourself an Iso machine (or two, lol) the process becomes a lot easier and more productive. The Iso machine is like a coffee percolater that uses dry powdered cannabis in place of the ground coffee and alcohol in place of the water. Set it up, wait 12 hours, do the reducing process and you have the most efficient way to produce cannabis oil ever invented. It's a closed system that only uses a light bulb for heat so it's safe to run in your home. I can provide links to info and pics for the whole process.

#17 FloridityNow

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 01:25 PM

I can provide links to info and pics for the whole process.


Can you get that info into one of the appropriate forum sections sometime, you think? What about using Everclear? I know it's more expensive than Iso but doesn't Iso possibly leave or add something less than desirable in the finished oil? You wouldn't drink Isopropyl alcohol, after all. Any thoughts on that? Thanks.

#18 greenhouse

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 01:38 PM

you are comparing apples to oranges?? my post was in regards to another....... and a member who was using rubbing alcohol..... not inferring that qwiso has anything to do with simpson oil.

because they are as different as apples and oranges. very sorry for any confusion..

Perhaps I am, but do not mean to, my apologies. I didn't mean for my post to sound as if I were replying directly to you, but hoped it you would read it too. Was just trying to help.

I've spilled, burned, and in general ruined almost as many batches as successful ones. If others can learn from my mistakes then they are not in vain.

Not to be confused with an isomerization process, which converts CBD into THC, I was referring to a solvent extraction of cannabinoids in general.
AND I forgot to include the step where the plant material is filtered before reduction. So, there's a good look at how easy it is for me to screw it up lol. It's a learning process for sure, but enjoyable.

#19 greenhouse

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 01:42 PM

On a side note, after the first "boil off" in essence you're really not boiling the alcohol, but freeing it from the polar molecular bonds between it and the goods. As long as you stir well, and use heat (180F-195F), the gas should escape, but stirring is required. Addition of water keeps the temp at approx. 200F until itself vaporizes.

#20 Guest_Happy Guy_*

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 02:05 PM

Can you get that info into one of the appropriate forum sections sometime, you think? What about using Everclear? I know it's more expensive than Iso but doesn't Iso possibly leave or add something less than desirable in the finished oil? You wouldn't drink Isopropyl alcohol, after all. Any thoughts on that? Thanks.

I have had it all posted in the 'appropriate' forum for a long time now. Here is the link; http://michigancanna...ic.php?f=9&t=61




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