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Huge, Fat, Dense Nugs And 4 Oz+ Harvests


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#21 Robman32

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Posted 04 September 2011 - 08:46 PM

Genetics

#22 Ten4GoodBuddys

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Posted 04 September 2011 - 08:50 PM

limbing and lolipopping.

#23 Mememe

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Posted 04 September 2011 - 08:59 PM

Sounds like the room is a vacuum. Cut some more vents or get smaller fans.

#24 cristinew

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Posted 17 September 2011 - 02:44 PM

proper ph and Humate Acid is the key

#25 cujo

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 08:36 AM

Add co2 and seal the grow room. Run room temp to 85 and keep the r/h to 40 and feed the snot out of them. You should be pullin 2 zips from a no veg girl right from clone and 4 to 8 if left to veg a few weeks. You said buds are airy so thats making me thing room to hot or r/h is off. Without co2 I never run temp over 78 degrees and 85 with the gas on. More co2 and more heat makes them grow more so crank them up and cut them loose.....

everything I read said 78 degrees with co2. 72-74 without. but veg room 80 degrees.

#26 cujo

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 08:37 AM

Pot size increased my yeilds. I switched from 5 gallon pots to 10 gallon pots. This has been the best thing I have done to improve my yeilds. One Wonder Haze, a sativa that should be lanky, grew 5' like a tree. yeilded 6oz dry weight. Under a 600 watt system no less. It was just a matter of tying down the branches to expose the sides to light. It was a sucessful FIM and training that made it work this time.

Lollipop to remove the lower half of the plant that will recieve little light from above. On all the inside branches - remove the first two nodes - these will be too small and airy to grow. Do all your chopping before the end of the third week of flower. Never remove more than 20% of the plant at a time. Sativas can get stressed if you chop it later in to flower, it can think its under attack and hermie.

Temp and humdity - you should make sure your temp is consistent, plants do not like quick temp changes and erratic temps. Plant growth is effected when the 'mouths' under the leaves close and open - too much humidity, too little, too hot - the plant is not breathing to grow, its just stressing. I run 70 to 82, winter or summer. Humidity is low during winter, but certainly better than fighting 90% humidity in summer!

compare grow rooms with your friends - what is different. Plants are not that exact about nutes, temp, lights - so what is different between your grow and theirs? Light leakage, temp, air quality (you do have intake vent right?) - can make all the diff. All grow rooms are different, if they use the same nutes - they might prepare it differently, if they use the same ballast, they might chose a different bulb, soil mixes, temp, humidity, and air quality.

And lastly, if you are stressing about 1oz difference, you need to switch strains! Most growers I have seen are lucky to get 2oz per plant. I am happy to say I have reached the 5oz dried weight class myself. Just be happy to be sucessful and don't stress!

-DN

I think you gave the best advice on this issue.

Edited by cujo, 19 March 2012 - 08:38 AM.


#27 anonymousgrower?

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 08:41 AM

THIS. if you cant run gas the next best thing you can do for your plants is getting as much fresh air constantly flowing thru that room as possible.

if you just toss your plants in a room in your basement with no source of fresh air, your whole op is going to suffer BADLY. yield will be tinkle poor, plants will hate you.



Wrong

#28 LongHairBri

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 10:42 AM

Wrong

you are correct.....WRONG

#29 drtarzanmd

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 05:11 PM

you are correct.....WRONG



You Are Correct ...... :bighug:

#30 Darkmatter

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 06:58 PM

Wrong



you are correct.....WRONG



You Are Correct ...... :bighug:


Red-Light...
Green-Light...
Green-Light...

My thoughts... Roots, Genetics, Light, Airflow, Water, Food, and canopy management. All these things are nessecary to grow giant buds on thick stalks, however: Science has proven that a plants growth is limited by it's scarcest resource. So that is something to keep in mind.

That being said, in my opinion the root-zone is where much of the action is. If you can grow GIANT healthy white root-balls in hydro, or have a large ,living, healthy rhizosphere in dirt, you will see maximum results.
Just ask my plants, they'll tell you.

#31 anonymousgrower?

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 07:37 PM

Have never brought fresh air in



plenty of airflow tho

Edited by anonymousgrower?, 19 March 2012 - 07:39 PM.


#32 lwheidt

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 10:38 AM

If you want bigger yields per plant try Deep Water Culture Hydroponics. If you want better buds, run 100% organics use compost tea, and don't crowd your plants too much. Also, the biggest yielding plants are often enriched with co2.

I think people get obsessed with per plant yield. Don't forget that some people out there are complete phonies who lie all the time about their yields so people think they are good growers. I've run into growers all the time who say they yield x oz's per plant, and what they mean is that the best plant they ever grew yielded x oz's and they wish all the rest did too. It is hard to get a short stocky 3 oz plant without good genetics.

I think it is a lot more valuable to figure out a system that allows you to yield more by being fully used at all times.
Good yields are about moving plants from veg to flower all the time. In order to do this you have to have a schedule. You have to clone every month, move plants into flower every month, and harvest every month. If you focus on huge plants, you might yield less! Because you aren't moving plants into your flower room all the time, and you aren't harvesting all the time.

I would rather harvest 4 oz every month from 4 small plants than to have giant plants in my veg room for three months.

#33 newbie313

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 12:41 PM

There is alot that.goes into it.

Great genetics
Root space/health
Nutrients/feeding schedule
pest control
Air circulation
Co2

Etc etc etc

But.no matter how well you have all these different variables accounted for you are really.going to be limited by the one that is not being accounted.for the best.

Ie if you have everything.ssetup.perfect and your roots have no.spaces. you will bot yield much

#34 rockinlespaul

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 05:10 PM

Try some different strains. I recommend Free Leonard and maybe Lemon Cake for yield and potency.

#35 cujo

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 01:02 PM

During the winter time, I had quite the problem. My plants were yielding roughly 2oz per plant, and I was doing everything I could think of to make my yields increase. My buds were tall, lanky, skinny and airy. I have since started to correct this problem over the last few months, but I'm not sure how I've been doing it.

All of my friends can easily pull 5+ oz per plant. When I first started, I was doing 4+oz per plant.

I use Sunshine bails, T5 + 400w + 1000w for veg room. 1000w x 4 for flower/bud. Ionic Boost, Bloom, and Grow and moderate feeding intervals. My clones are fine, my plants are fine, there is no stretching, no spider mites, or anything else generally looked at first and for mostly when a problem arises. If anyone has any tips or questions about my grow specifics or can help me in any way, I'd be appreciative.

I'm bothered by the fact that I'm not pulling what I should. If anyone can help, that'd be great. I've seen 400w set ups on here that are pulling more oz per plant than I am with 1000ws, and with the summer coming, and heat issues abound, I need to correct my yielding and then worry about the cooling system after that.

sounds like your venting from outside in the winter here the humidity goes down to almost nothing. I'm having an issue with that myself, splashing water in the drip pans to keep it up to a healthy level but couldn't. so here comes a co2 burner. low humidity causes tip burn so this stress must do other harm. my buds came out too light and airy,but sized good.

#36 Croppled1

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Posted 15 April 2012 - 06:57 AM

This is a good thread and my own experimentation has found all the advice very sound .
As stated many times the two largest factors influencing grows after one has two distinct separate light environments for a perpetual set up are genetics and pot size . The patients with the huge yields are using a min of 5 but better are 7 or 10 gallon smart pots . Handles are worth the money unless you use dollies with 10 foot ceilings and the inexpensive Lucas method of fertilization is fine with proper PH and high yield genetics that help ones condition . Thats the rub for most people finding and sampling different genetics with the fear of criminality that still surrounds legitimate medical use in practical application .


I know my plants like full spectrum light in veg from a 50 / 50 hps mh set up and side and top light with enhanced HPS lamps in Flower . I am OK with the plant limits but storage is where problems creep up in order to have a non interrupted supply and shut down for hospitalizations or other time away . The Farmers Market helps then while getting started again but patients could reduce costs for themselves with more storage capacity . .

Edited by Croppled1, 15 April 2012 - 07:21 AM.





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