Your Nutrients

[pergamum362]

Just curious as to what people are using in thier grows?Im looking to add a few things or try a few more products out in the very near future.anything someones used with good effects and things people say are sugar water, please give me some info!!!!..I want to probe you

[Petyr]

I use:

 

http://www.jrpeters.com/Products/Hydroponics/Buy-Hydroponics.html

 

http://customhydronutrients.com/index.html/

 

IMO, 95% of the things they sell at hydro stores are overpriced and/or unnecessary. Most of the ingredients in fertilizers are bought from huge suppliers and repackaged by the various nute companies. AN doesn't have their own mine, they buy their mineral salts on the global commodity market like everyone else. This goes for everything from nutes to enzymes to growing media to equipment. The trick is to figure out who they are using for their supplier, and moving up the chain. Why pay 3x as much for peat moss with a little perlite added in when you can get the same peat for way cheaper. Fox Farm doesn't own acres of peat bogs, they buy it from the Canadians like everyone else.

 

I also feel anything that comes in a liquid form is probably a waste of money. You are paying to ship water across the country.

 

I would never use anything with a "secret" ingredient. If they can not accurately list the ingredients of their concoction, I don't want it. Likely they are using some non approved hormone or charging $80 for $2 worth of seaweed extract.

[pergamum362]

Nice, you make some valid points, any other nutrients you have tried or used?Possible to show your results?

[Petyr]

I've used General Hydroponics 3 part system in the past. Lucas formula and otherwise. It works fine but is still overpriced. ProTekt is a great supplement, but again overpriced when compared to Potassium Silicate salts. I had some superthrive, but didn't see any difference in a side by side experiment I did.

 

This is @day 48 fed with Jack's in a 5 gallon coco hempy.

 

[pergamum362]

Those are pretty impressive, I like the cage you used, Did you go vertical?Those seem like really high npk values for base nutes?

[The Digital Nomad]

I use Techaflora line of nutes.

 

I had started with their $40 starter kit, it came complete with everything from cloning, transplanting, grow and flower - enough for about 5 - 7 plants. You will run out of Sugar Daddy, and Boost - so eventually you'll buy quarts and half gallons.

 

I had tried powders, I tried homemade stuff - but really it came down to being consistent, having a reliable mix, and be able to repeat your formula every time. This was just a good way for a new grower to get started, they have very clear mix instructions, and its nutes are broken down into various bottles because I do believe that elements can interfere or degrade other elements. The labels are clear - there is no magic formulas here. You can learn to replace a bottle of nute with a similar nute - CalMag for another calcium magnesium supplement (molasses has calcium, mag, and zinc in it). On the bottle of Sugar Daddy, they do tell you to try increasing its dosage - and you can tweak other nutes - based on how your strain likes it. The key here is to start from a clear baseline.

 

DN

[The Digital Nomad]

And good idea on the cage - sativas grow tall, and then they grow heavy buds - which causes the stems to break off!

 

I use rubber coated wire, I either use a bamboo post or another branch to pull or support another branch.

some people use string netting, some people use a wires hanging from the ceiling. I try to build each pot to contain its own trellis/plant - so I can rotate them for inspection, etc.

 

Check the temperature of your cement floor? I would suspect your plants would be happier with warm soil, cement is so cold that even animals are prohibited from sleeping on bare cement floors. just try a 2" piece of wood under the pot.

 

DN

[Petyr]

Those are pretty impressive, I like the cage you used, Did you go vertical?Those seem like really high npk values for base nutes?

 

Yes, it was 2x600w hps bare bulb vertical in there. I'm not sure what you mean by base nutes. Thats all I use for veg and early flower. For flower I tweak the formula to raise K and P while dropping N and Ca. I just add some Mono Potassium Phosphate (0-52-34) and adjust the other salts accordingly to get the values where I want. As far as the NPK values, they are borrowed from another grower and are based upon tissue analysis of cannabis.

[michiganmedclones]

7g maxibloom, 2ml of calmag per gal and now experimenting with protekt silica. VERY cheap nute schedule with very good results. Its very constant and i use it from veg to flower, seedlings get half strength 1 week after breaking through until week 4 when they're transplanted to the veg room

[pergamum362]

what was the yield...based upon what i HAVE done..you got about a qp per plant or less..maybe a lil more....from the pics you posted...thats alot of veg time..Ive got the same from plants at 3-5 weeks veg..white widow x big bud being an example...although your pics are impressive..I wonder what those buds dried up too..

[pergamum362]

theres more to what the plant does than just an N-P-K value..base nutes means the base upon wich your ppms/ec valued lie upon...the part of your nutrient feeeding program that at 1700 plus or 1.5 or above your nutrient solution will burn the plants...I believe you can add things to your ppm that will affect your overall ppm/ec but wont effect your overall point at wich point plants burn..etc etc..but will effect the ending outcome of your plants.

[pergamum362]

you did good tho..those plants look REALLY heatlthy...I would say at the very least you didnt flush early enough.theres to many turned hairs and not enough yellow leafs.

[pergamum362]

any other products..additives mainly?for professionals only...Im not interested in a year or twos worth of growing time.

[pergamum362]

I would like to add..i can tell your not flushing at an ?appriote? time..based upon the few leaves that are yellowing and the color of the hairs.

[pergamum362]

I could be wrong tho

[pergamum362]

any other products..additives mainly?for professionals only...Im not interested in a year or twos worth of growing time.

unless youve done side by sides...pls if YOU have done it or you have a link to something share it for the benefit of everyone.

[pergamum362]

Next cycle or this one coming up I will be adding advanced nutrient B2 and technafloras sugar daddy to 2 plants out of the grow.Also I will for the viewers, quarantine one plant to not recieve any additives.look for the vids in the mmma vid/gallery.Im looking for other products I can try and document to post to the mm community.I believe in this cause..although this is just a step for me to legalisation..to alot..its chains being taken from thier arms...lets let everyone benefit.I have experimenteed with carboload from advanced nutrients, along with beastie bloomz from fox farms and thrive alive b1 red technaflora with above normal than results.

[pergamum362]

And good idea on the cage - sativas grow tall, and then they grow heavy buds - which causes the stems to break off!

 

I use rubber coated wire, I either use a bamboo post or another branch to pull or support another branch.

some people use string netting, some people use a wires hanging from the ceiling. I try to build each pot to contain its own trellis/plant - so I can rotate them for inspection, etc.

 

Check the temperature of your cement floor? I would suspect your plants would be happier with warm soil, cement is so cold that even animals are prohibited from sleeping on bare cement floors. just try a 2" piece of wood under the pot.

 

DN

I have done this..the differnence is not significant for my rooms.My lowest temps never reach below 63 with a heater at the floor..I would suspect that if the heater were not there at floor level outcomes would be different..TDN is right..you do not want your root mediums to drop fifteen to twenty degrees lowers than your ambient air temp period..IMO..anything below sixty is detrimental..just in my opinion, I have no physical visual evidence to back that up only pers exp

[cristinew]

Humic Acid, is what i use ., it does plants wonders, check it out humate supreme

[LansingAreaCaregiver]

Humic Acid, is what i use ., it does plants wonders, check it out humate supreme

 

Amen! I use fossil fuel, a different brand of humic acid. It really works.

[mike44]

Amen! I use fossil fuel, a different brand of humic acid. It really works.

I use General Organics Diamond Black, keeps leaves from yellowing & falling off during flower. Keeps the flowers growing longer and larger due to the plant producing more sugars.

(at least that is my un-scientific opinion) I really see the difference when I do use it.

[The Digital Nomad]

If you do a 'root ball autopsy' - after your harvest check the root ball and it can tell you a few things.

 

You will see most of the roots are right at the bottom of the pot. If you do the autopsy right after harvest, you can see healthy roots as white and fresh and dead roots as brown and rotted. I expect the root ball to encompass the entire pot - but not be so root bound that there is very little dirt left. With a five gallon pot, the root ball was so dense I was concerned about the plant being stressed by it, so I moved to a ten gallon pot. Of course my yields more than doubled, but the root ball autopsy showed a few small pockets of dirt still available for the plant to feed and grow into. Maybe my theory matches others that say that pot sized effects plant size, that colder temps just refrigerate plants, that plants are happy when they have more room to grow.

 

Again, I look for a nice sized formed root ball, I found that plants that did poorly had bad root balls. Either a transplant failed, either the plant just did not have enough time to veg - due to stress or just a weak clone rooting.

 

Soil PH is important, but so is its temperature, quanity, and mix. If the root suffers, the plant suffers.

 

DN

[pergamum362]

If you do a 'root ball autopsy' - after your harvest check the root ball and it can tell you a few things.

 

You will see most of the roots are right at the bottom of the pot. If you do the autopsy right after harvest, you can see healthy roots as white and fresh and dead roots as brown and rotted. I expect the root ball to encompass the entire pot - but not be so root bound that there is very little dirt left. With a five gallon pot, the root ball was so dense I was concerned about the plant being stressed by it, so I moved to a ten gallon pot. Of course my yields more than doubled, but the root ball autopsy showed a few small pockets of dirt still available for the plant to feed and grow into. Maybe my theory matches others that say that pot sized effects plant size, that colder temps just refrigerate plants, that plants are happy when they have more room to growx

 

Again, I look for a nice sized formed root ball, I found that plants that did poorly had bad root balls. Either a transplant failed, either the plant just did not have enough time to veg - due to stress or just a weak clone rooting.

 

Soil PH is important, but so is its temperature, quanity, and mix. If the root suffers, the plant suffers.

 

DN

I would vigitantly disagree...either your veg room?feed schedule is off or your veging to long for optimul outcomes.one gal, gal and half seems to do pretty good for a months time in the pot , veg or flower.I compeletly disagree with the bigger pot, bigger,healthier plant phenomenom...pm me TDN or continue here.There are many variables that play in to the mix, most are close or the same across the boared..the fact is if you take a plant that has been in a for instance..a 2 gal pot and put it in a 10 gal pot..the roots will expand until they hit the container then start a circling motion with some roots heading back inwards leaving alot of the pot "open"...,by the time your done veging the "pot" to full potential the actual plant is way above indoor hieght limitations....now take a clone thats been in a 12 to 16oz dixie..or for me beer pong cub.lol..filled that small space up, transplant to a 1 or 2 gal pot..let it veg to a month,2 months TOPS if your in sync with your plants and under HID lighting..or until the pot is filled(this is not that hard to figure out)then give it the amount of gallons per soil that it will be in flower...you will get IMO the best outcome for your money spent..at 40 plus a bail for what I use..doing ten gallons pots for all the plants..will get pretty darn expesive..considering a bail only does about 3 or to 5, Five gal pots taking into consideration the mix and expansion when you water....my pers opinion from experience.

[pergamum362]

He is right..if the root suffers...so does the plant..theres more going on underneath..common people..I know there are more products used out there with good results.you dont have to have plants that look like the above to post here..no one will judge you..if they do..ill kick there donkey..I am looking for experience tho but this post is ultimately for everyone.

[pergamum362]

I am in particular looking for root stimulators.."growth boosters" for for roots...this is not something I have much experience with.Im looking into house and gardens stimulator in particular.any experience with ANY products claimed to boost that type of growth will be appreciated on my end.