Jump to content

Mezz's Meds Method


MightyMightyMezz

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Why hoard it spread it around freely . :thumbsu:

 

I tend to not have socialistic/communist ideals like that.

 

This goes to people who have earned it, I never expect anyone to just give me their strains, I hope to earn them.

 

This strain also wasn't just ordered up or a cut. This was the culmination of years of breeding, which is on going. We rarely ever stabilize anything and instead rely on good mothers from each generation. The idea of stabilizing some of the latest strains is being considered, but that would take at least a year or so. Plus the legal issues to consider are complex. You may be hearing more from me, or I may slink back into my rabbit hole. All depends on the climate, how my friends feel about it, and the amount of respect I see in the community.

 

As for the final meds, the patients who allow me to grow for them come first, usually not much for overage after they have at it, but if there is some I will donate it to needy patients.

 

For now I can only tease, and I could be over ruled on even posting pics, but I hate living in fear.

 

Here is one more lol ....

 

gallery_29764_1032_3474.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice organic info post. Reworking my soil mix as we speak. Been using guano teas but getting occasionally inconsistent results. Usually great results but while I know my PPM total, I can't be sure of of the parts make up. Going to a super soil mix similar to yours and using compost teas only. Do also use a fairly new line from Oregons Only Organics with great results. A nice hippie mix from Oregon (of course). Thanks to everyone for the organic inputs. Good luck with the outputs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I stopped using bat guano in AACT for fear of brewing weapons grade e. coli! lol

 

That reminds me of about twenty years ago before there was very much information available I thought I would make some guano tea. I put guano and water in a gallon jug, fastened the lid and let it "brew" for a week. When I opened it the jug was about to burst and the stench was one of the worst things ever. I think it was methane. Nasty! :blink: I didn't even get a buzz off it like jenkem!!! :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks great

I have grown a lot of hazes and I always chuckle when people say it has to have tight buds

Congrats

 

Some of the purer Hazes are ridiculously sparse. That's where some of the ultimate quality is to be found I think. The mother of this cross is reputed to "have Neville's Haze in it" so there may be some Northern Lights heritage in it. The male was a "random" Burmese.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To be fair, any mix containing perlite is generally not regarded as organic (depending on which regulatory body you ask). But what is really organic is a whole debate for another thread. Besides perlite is in nearly every potting soil you will find in stores, so oh well. My "organic" has perlite in the soil too.

 

I know you said you do not like liquids, but you may want to consider Bio-Bizz's line. Grow is beet molasses, and Bloom is beet molasses and kelp. Its also veganic if thats on your mind. Amazing results and I have tried A LOT of organic products.

 

The real key is the tea. It creates a whole ecosystem in your soil, which for organic growing is absolutely key. Research the soil food web if you haven't already.

 

Also be wary of most of the new products which contain trichoderma, that stuff wipes out other fungi and dominates in soil which will tank the soils PH. Also ecto mycorhizae is pointless for cannabis, so save the cash and buy Xtreme Gardening's Mykos. Just one strain of endo mycorhizae so no competition between strains. Also some soils that have mycorhizae advertised in the mix aren't a substitute for the Mykos, you have more control with the Mykos to get it ON the roots, which is very important for colonization.

 

On the bacterial side, again, teas made from worm compost but also alskan humus AKA river muck are the best. NEVER dilute them unless you are foliar spraying. Diluting them is just cutting your self short. Even if most of the bacteria in the tea dies, it is eaten by other bacteria and thus mineralized back into the soil. Xtreme Gardening's Azo's (nitrogen fixing bacteria) has been showing me promising results, if this keeps up I may be able to remove fish meal/high n bat guano/cotton seed meal from my mixes. It also claims zero yellowing of clones when used as a cloning paste. I have yet to try this out yet so I can't speak with any certaininty on that. Before anyone thinks I'm some Xtreme Gardening rep I'll say right now that anything else from them either doesn't perform as advertised (not even close with calcarb) or is over priced (like their tea brewing bags).

 

However, on the flushing issue, flushing is more than removing salts from the soil, its the act of starvation that forces the plant to stop relying on the soil/water to supply them nutrients and to take from their reserves held in the leaves. If your soil is over amended nitrogen and phosphorous will remain in these tissues. Nitrogen remaining allows chlorophyll to continue its photosynthesis processes leading to grassy or harsh tastes. Phosphorous remaining will result in the stores not being metabolized and a soapy taste or dark ash results. Remember there are such things called organic salts and they are present in many organic nutrients/supplements both dry and liquid http://en.wikipedia....f_organic_salts

 

Great thread, hope I added to it!

 

 

I didn't know some people don't consider perlite organic. I guess OMRI certifies it so that's good enough for me. I'm not particularly attached to perlite though. I would use seed hulls or something if it worked as good or better than perlite.

 

So the Extreme Gardening Mykos product has one particular strain that is well-suited to Cannabis sativa? I'm going to give that another look. The Azos and the humus sound good too. Thanks a lot man.

 

All my plants seem to yellow up eventually so I haven't experienced that harsh chlorophyll taste for a while now. I could see it possibly becoming more of an issue as more ingredients are added to the mix. Don't think I've had the soapy taste, at least not in my own!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't know some people don't consider perlite organic. I guess OMRI certifies it so that's good enough for me. I'm not particularly attached to perlite though. I would use seed hulls or something if it worked as good or better than perlite.

 

So the Extreme Gardening Mykos product has one particular strain that is well-suited to Cannabis sativa? I'm going to give that another look. The Azos and the humus sound good too. Thanks a lot man.

 

All my plants seem to yellow up eventually so I haven't experienced that harsh chlorophyll taste for a while now. I could see it possibly becoming more of an issue as more ingredients are added to the mix. Don't think I've had the soapy taste, at least not in my own!

 

I don't really follow any of the regulatory bodies, some stuff is just ridiculous to try and follow. One wont certify anything organic if it is grown under any artificial light... :rollseyes:

 

Its only Glomus Intradices in the Xtreme Mykos. This is the only one "thought" to be able to form a relationship with cannabis, or more correctly, anything other than a true tree. The azo's has really been performing the past month or so since I've tried it. EJ has a product with two Azo's bacteria strains, but alas, it also contains Trichoderma...sooo probably wont be testing that one.

 

Most cannabis will do what I call "auto flush", but basically, when they think time is up, they stop absorbing nutes and just metabolize em. Can be a bit frustrating as its harder to combat without chelated nitrogen, but I hate early leaf die off as its one of the many factors that can lead to bud rot, or just plain bad flavor.

 

These are the first test batch that I ran the Azo's with, just about 1/2 way through flower, no high nitrogen amendments in the soil.

gallery_29764_1032_34695.jpg

The HPS pretty much washes everything out, but you get the idea. To be fair it has gotten a regular regiment of Bio-Grow, though no where near levels you would need to keep her green without a high nitrogen amendment. She will yellow out starting week 6 and really drop nitrogen in week 8. When we grow her hydro we can push her to 10 weeks without the leaf die off and get a much better harvest in terms of dry yield. My hope is we will be able to push her for 10 weeks in the soil with the azo's fixating nitrogen. One can only hope.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks amazing Caffeine! I got a sample of Mykos and Azos so I'll be trying that out soon. I was thinking about nitrogen fixing bacteria and a thought came to mind that allowing clover to grow in the pot could be a great way to do it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And now, without further ado:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sheba x Northern Lights @ 30 days

 

gallery_13379_663_881480.jpg

 

 

gallery_13379_663_664362.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lookin good, I think you'll like both azos and mykos. I actually just got some of premier hort. Myke (same stuff in promix bx). Testing that out now too. Its different from mykos, which is rare to find. As far as I know premier is the only other company (besides RFI) to culture glomus intraradices.

 

Just a fun update on that azos test. Day 40, this is about the time it will start to yellow out early. No sign of it thus far.

 

gallery_29764_1032_1078696.jpg

gallery_29764_1032_1094675.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been using their granular mycos on the roots of transplants.

Do you put azos directly on the roots or can you water it into soil?

 

I've gone both routes.

 

You use way less azos when just dusting the roots than you do with making a drench.

 

When I have the chance, I'll dust the roots, if I forgot to or something, then I'll drench em.

 

One note about the drench, if you get it on the leaves of the plant, it will leave a chalky white residue which looks very much like Powdery Mildew, but its not. Just wipe it off the leaves, or wait till the next watering and rinse it off. Scared the crap out of me the first time I did the drench, thought my expensive Kush cut was infected, luckily it was not!

 

Edit: I should note the first run had their roots drenched before transplant, and dusted when transplanted (One time). I have another set of tests in earlier stages of flower where I only applied a root dusting direct from the EZ clone and again on transplant. Those are going against nothing but root drenches. I haven't noted any differences thus far, and they are both on a low nitrogen diet.

Oh and Mezz I had thought of using legumes/clover but never actually followed through with it. In theory it should work, in practice is always a different story :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I used these products as they were so much cheaper. what with buying grow lights and stuff to set up my room. don't let the white fuzz scare you it's a good fungus. and I've got no complaints. and I went all organic and natural until bloom enhancer time then I used both organic and chem but I will flush and recycle the soil. all that organic material and benies in there it's got to get better with age. I'll rinse out the little bit of chemical salts and rinse with enzymes and add back what ever else you think would be needed. what do you think?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...