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Co2 Conspiracy Files


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ROSEBUD MAGAZINE FILES

 

One pest-killing technique that doesn’t leave poisons or other residues on your crops relies on dosing your grow room atmosphere with extreme levels of CO2. This is especially appropriate if you have a CEA (controlled-environment agriculture) sealed room, but you can make it work in any reasonably well-sequestered grow space. Your first step is to shut off all venting and be ready to put a towel at the base of the grow room door. You’re going to be upping your CO2 parts per million to 8,000 ppm for two hours. That much CO2 will exceed the range of your metering, dispensing and monitoring equipment. In most cases, you’ll be using a tank instead of a CO2 burner because only a tank can deliver that much gas that quickly. Remember to use extreme caution. A concentration of CO2 above 500 ppm isn’t healthy for humans. Keep your room closed tightly while the CO2 is increased, and stay out until the concentrations are back under 500 ppm. This CO2 blast method will kill adult insect pests, but it won’t kill their eggs, so wait five days and repeat in order to catch hatchlings before they’re old enough to lay eggs of their own. To implement the CO2 blast, you’ll need to do some hardware experimentation before you can reliably inject that much CO2 that fast. Professional growers affirm that this method gets rid of pests, increases plant metabolism, and leaves your harvests clean and pest-free.

- See more famous magazine conspiracies here

 

: http://www.rosebudmag.com/growers/hydroponic-tips-ideas/integrated-pest-management-armor-grow-room-plants#sthash.Vw6aBRiL.dpuf

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WIKIPEDIA FILES

 

Agricultural and biological applications from the Wikipedia conspiracy files; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_dioxide

 

Plants require carbon dioxide to conduct photosynthesis. Greenhouses may (if of large size, must) enrich their atmospheres with additional CO2 to sustain and increase plant growth.[24][25] A photosynthesis-related drop (by a factor less than two) in carbon dioxide concentration in a greenhouse compartment would kill green plants, or, at least, completely stop their growth. At very high concentrations (100 times atmospheric concentration, or greater), carbon dioxide can be toxic to animal life, so raising the concentration to 10,000 ppm (1%) or higher for several hours will eliminate pests such as whiteflies and spider mites in a greenhouse

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Arthropods cope with reduced oxygen and elevated carbon dioxide

atmospheres with a reduction in metabolic rate, also called metabolic arrest. The

reduction in metabolism lessens the pressure on the organism to initiate anaerobic

metabolism, but also leads to a reduction in ATP production. The natural

permeability of cellular membranes appears to be important for the survival of the

arthropod under low oxygen or high carbon dioxide atmospheres. Despite the

similarities in response, arthropod mortality is generally greater in response to

high carbon dioxide as apposed to low oxygen atmospheres. There appears to be a

greater decrease in ATP and energy charge in arthropods exposed to high carbon

dioxide as compared with low oxygen atmospheres, and this may be due to greater

membrane permeability under carbon dioxide leading to an inefficient production

of ATP. Reduced oxygen and elevated carbon dioxide atmospheres can have an

additive effect in some cases, depending on the concentrations used. The effect of

these atmospheres on arthropods depends also on temperature, species and life

stage. Additional work is needed to fully understand the mode of action of

controlled atmospheres on arthropod pests.

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Harvard University Conspiracy File?

CO2 Finds, Kills Bedbugs

CDC/ Harvard University, Dr. Gary Alpert; Dr. Harold Harlan; Richard Pollack. Photo Credit: Piotr Naskrecki

With the drastic increase in bedbug infestation over the last several years, scientists and researchers have searched for safe, cost-effective methods of eliminating these pests.

Because bedbugs are attracted by the elevated carbon dioxide levels in human respiration, CO2 can be used to determine if a bedbug infestation exists. And because high levels of CO2 kills bed bugs, pest control companies are using CO2 instead of toxic insecticides to fumigate hotel rooms and even entire buildings.

FIREMANS C02 OXYGEN DEPLETION


"The risks associated with carbon dioxide are; “It’s a colorless, odorless non-flammable gas with a vapor density 1.5 times that of room air. It is non-toxic, but by displacing oxygen in confined spaces 1, the gas can cause asphyxiation”3. Recently, new fire department laws are being discussed to provide proper safety regulations in environments where carbon dioxide is stored and used in establishments dispensing beverages and in indoor grow rooms. The Denver fire department recognized that carbon dioxide causes asphyxiation and is considering the use of an O2 monitor as well as in grow rooms where low concentrations of carbon dioxide are present."

There are four key cryogenic gases; nitrogen, helium, argon, and carbon dioxide (CO2), which can create an oxygen deficient atmosphere. Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) covering cryogenic gases cite that a cryogenic leak can create an unsafe environment by lowering the breathable oxygen levels. If an oxygen monitor is required for N2, He, and argon, then why not for CO2? Carbon dioxide is a cryogen that is often overlooked because it’s considered a harmless gas that provides the fizz in soda. The reality is that during a leak, it rapidly depletes the oxygen in the room.

“In June 2011, a McDonald's restaurant in Phoenix, Arizona, was evacuated because of a leaking CO2 cylinder in the basement. A pregnant employee reportedly collapsed while exiting the basement and two firefighters were injured during the incident”1. This is only one of many similar incidents of asphyxiation due to a CO2 release where people felt symptoms from lack of oxygen before the toxic effects occurred. With the current use of larger 100 + gallon liquid CO2 tanks, any leak can cause severe asphyxiation hazards. Although a CO2 monitor is recommended, we believe that an oxygen deficiency monitor should also be employed because the asphyxiation risk is due to the depletion of breathable oxygen.

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http://postharvest.ucdavis.edu/libraries/publications/index.cfm

 

"CO2 has insecticidal activity against a wide range of insect pests. As you mentioned, the limiting factor is generally the tolerance of the fresh food product or the amount of time available to conduct the treatment but this is not an issue for timber. It is required to have a fairly well sealed facility, although CO2 has been applied in temporary plastic tents used for the fumigation of homes and other structures. I would like to refer you to our web site where we have summary tables of the research that has been conducted on controlling insects with controlled atmospheres, including low oxygen and elevated CO2"

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only SOMEWHAT related

 

The Oxygen You Breathe Comes from Water

 

Yes, that’s correct, water… H2O

 

chloroplastsfigure1.jpgHere are how, where, and when this works in green plants:

 

How: Photosynthesis is basically a two-step process, and the first step is when water is converted into oxygen.

 

The first step directly requires light energy, which is captured by the photosynthetic pigments, mainly chlorophyll. The chlorophyll converts light energy (photons) into chemical energy, in the form of high-energy electrons.

 

This chemical energy is used in the photosynthetic reaction centers to split 2 water molecules, producing 4 electrons, 4 protons, and 2 oxygen atoms, which combine to form oxygen gas (O2).

 

2H20 –> 4 e- + 4 H+ + O2

 

Where: In green plants, photosynthesis occurs in chloroplasts, about two to four dozen of which float around in the cytoplasm of photosynthetic plant cells.

 

2927613566_5dd518d2d7.jpg

 

The first step, described above, takes place in the thylakoid membranes (see Figure 1 above).

 

When: Since the splitting of water to form oxygen requires light energy, this only occurs naturally during the daytime.

 

Where Does the CO2 Come In?

 

The chemical energy captured in step one above is used in step two of photosynthesis, that is, to convert CO2 into carbohydrates (sugars). This is called carbon fixation, a.k.a., the Calvin cycle, which takes place in the chloroplast stroma. (see Figure 1 above)

 

What is the scientific evidence that O2 isn’t derived from CO2 in photosynthesis?

 

Well, one way to test this is to use water or CO2 containing the radionuclide, a.k.a., radioactive isotope, of oxygen (e.g., oxygen-18 = O18) in photosynthesis and see which one, H2O18 or CO218, produces radioactive O218. Turns out, it’s the water.

 

Cyanobacteria, Green Algae and Plants All Do This

 

All of the photosynthetic organisms – plants, green algae (e.g., phytoplankton in the oceans), and cyanobacteria – that use water as an electron source do this.

 

So, where does the oxygen you enjoy breathing mostly come from?

 

For a probable answer, see here.

 

Bottom line: Green plants DO NOT convert carbon dioxide (CO2) into oxygen (O2). The oxygen comes from water. Green plants DO, however, convert atmospheric CO2 into sugars. So, the oxygen atoms in the CO2 wind up in the sugars (e.g., glucose = C6H12O6).

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by Stephen Keen

 

One important, and often overlooked, aspect of an indoor garden's climate is the level of carbon dioxide present. Here is why this is so important, and ways to ensure your garden gets enough of this chemical compound.

 

Nothing makes the indoor gardener happier than a large, healthy crop—beautiful green leaves, colorful fruits and vegetables, heavy and aromatic flowers. But no matter what you are growing, the limiting factors to crop health and overall yields are the same: nutrients, climate, lighting and pest control. Every plant has different requirements for optimal health, but these four limiting factors can make or break a harvest in any gardening scenario—if a single factor is imperfect, crops can be negatively affected. Some imperfections can destroy a crop entirely.

 

One important, and often overlooked, aspect of the garden’s climate is the level of carbon dioxide in the garden. What many of us don’t understand completely is that CO2 is actually consumed by our plants. Carbon dioxide is made of two oxygen atoms and one carbon atom bonded together. During photosynthesis, when the lights are on, plants absorb CO2 through the stomata (pores) found on the leaves of the plant. The plant turns the carbon atom into plant material such as leaves, flowers and fruit, and discards the two oxygen atoms during transpiration—usually when the lights are off, with few notable exceptions. Adequate CO2 levels are absolutely vital to the health and growth of plants, and elevated levels can contribute to explosive growth and production.

 

Normal levels of CO2 in the atmosphere are generally between 300 and 500 ppm, but this is a basic range and can vary somewhat based on location. Under all circumstances, your plants should be provided with 300 to 500 ppm of CO2 to ensure proper growth. This can be tricky, especially in a sealed garden environment, because plants will consume the CO2, so even though the normal range of carbon dioxideis present at first, supplementation might still be required because the plants will drop the levels of carbon dioxide in a sealed garden down to zero. Once the CO2 levels drop below what is normally available in the atmosphere, plant growth will be negatively affected, often dramatically.

 

Studies have shown that plant growth and production increases with CO2 levels that are higher than atmospheric norms. Different species of plants will respond in different ways, but overall, all plants that consume CO2 will respond positively to elevated levels. A 1979 study by the Australian National University found that when carbon dioxide levels were elevated to approximately double the atmospheric normal, 40-day-old cotton plants were double the weight of the same cotton plant grown at normal carbon dioxide levels. Maize plants that were part of the same study increased in weight by 20%.

 

While elevated levels are beneficial to the health and overall production of most plants, levels above 1,500 ppm are unnecessary. There is no benefit to providing more CO2 than your plants can consume and carbon dioxide levels above 2,000 ppm can harm your plants by limiting transpiration and reducing nutrient uptake. Carbon dioxide is generally safe for humans at these levels, but levels above 6,000 ppm are harmful to humans after exposure for a period of time, especially for those with respiratory problems. For this reason, if you are enriching your garden with CO2, it is vital that you use a monitor in conjunction with your enrichment devices to control the levels at all times. The generally accepted sweet spot in the indoor gardening world is maintaining levels between 1,000 and 1,800 ppm, with most gardeners agreeing on 1,500 ppm as the level of maximum benefit. With few exceptions, it is unnecessary to provide the garden with CO2 enrichment when the lights are off—this is usually only necessary when the lights in the garden are on and photosynthesis is in full swing.

 

There are several different ways of delivering CO2 to your garden. The simplest way to replenish the CO2 levels is by venting, where a fan exhausts garden air out and replaces it with air from the outside. This replaces any air that has depleted CO2 levels. This method is common, but it limits the garden to only the atmospheric normal levels of CO2, does nothing to enrich the air with higher levels and it is not without problems, primarily related to the other aspects of the garden’s climate. For example, if it’s humid outside, you introduce humidity into the garden, which can lead to fungus growth on your crop, and since most gardens are already humid, no more moisture is needed. Introducing outside air can also introduce pests into the space. Lastly, if the temperature outside is hotter than you want your garden to be, you must compensate for the introduction of outside air with your air-conditioning system. Most gardeners who start out with a venting system eventually move to a different type of enrichment system.

 

There are also systems available that boost CO2 levels with decomposing natural materials. These come in a package that you place in the garden, during which time the decomposition off-gasses CO2 into the garden, boosting the levels somewhat. These products are natural and inexpensive and don’t require a CO2 monitor or other equipment to operate, as there is little chance of overdosing your garden unless you are using an extremelysmall space. However, CO2 volumes will be variable, and it is difficult to determine exactly what ppms can be reached . Additionally, they can’t be turned on and off with your lighting, so will continually off-gas even during the night cycle when CO 2 isn’t being consumed. The manufacturer’s estimate for lifetime on this product is usually about two months. Depending on the size of the garden, multiple packages might be required.

 

Bottles of pure CO2 are commonly available at most hydroponics retail outlets, where they can also be refilled or exchanged for new bottles. With this method, you use a regulator connected to a CO2 monitor. The monitor reads the CO2 level in the space, opens the regulator when CO2 is needed in the space, and closes it when the levels reach the presets on the monitor. This is a relatively inexpensive up-front cost, as the bottles aren’t particularly expensive. However, they will require frequent refilling or exchanging, which can become tedious for many gardeners.

 

Carbon dioxide generators are also commonly available from most hydroponics retailers. These generators create CO2 in the air by burning propane or natural gas—the primary byproduct of burning these gases is CO2. They should also be used in conjunction with a CO2 monitor that turns them on when carbon dioxide is needed and turns them off when it is not. Using a carbon dioxide generator is an easy and efficient way to introduce CO2 into the garden, as gas creates about three times as much CO2 as an equivalently-sized bottle. If you are operating your generator using bottles of propane, this reduces the number of refills required by two-thirds. Additionally, most generators can be plumbed into the gas supply of your home or commercial space, resulting in no need to replace or refill a bottle. The obvious downside to using a CO2 generator is that burning propane or natural gas produces a lot of heat. This is undesirable in most gardens, as heat is a constant struggle for many of us. You can compensate for this with additional air conditioning. There is also a CO2 generator available that is water-cooled, resulting in optimal CO 2 levels with no heat being released into the garden environment. The generator and the bottle used in conjunction with a CO2 monitor are the only two ways of maintaining constant, specific levels of carbon dioxide in the garden.

 

Carbon dioxide is heavier than the rest of the air in the space, meaning that it will fall to the floor and levels 12-in. above the ground will be higher than levels 60-in. above the ground. For this reason, monitors should be placed at plant canopy level, so they can accurately read the CO2 levels where they matter most. Adequate airflow inside the garden will ensure CO2 is homogenized into the air as much as possible.

 

No matter what you are growing or how you deliver it, adequate CO2 levels in the space are absolutely vital for the health of your crop. Since the carbon translates directly into plant material, CO2 levels elevated above normal levels found in the atmosphere will result in density and yields not otherwise achievable.

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Changing the composition of the atmosphere in

the greenhouse by either reducing oxygen or

increasing carbon dioxide appears to provide

some control of greenhouse whiteflies, especially

adults. Reduced-oxygen experiments by Dr.

Susan Han at the University of Massachusetts

resulted in 100% adult mortality after less than

two hours of exposure, though eight-hour

treatments were needed to control most (about

80%) of the eggs and pupae (11).

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i think it would be easier to put the plant in a large bag and then use a vacuum to suck the air out. then use a co2 tank to co2 it.

 

that way you dont have ta worry about breathing it, as you'll be protected by the large bag that will fill up like a baloon.

 

alternatives for plastic bag:

small plastic greenhouse, includes frame for easy in and out action, just remove the shelves.

http://www.garden4less.co.uk/prodimages/greenhouse/clear-plastic-mini-greenhouse.jpg

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precisely!  That is exactly what I've assisted other doing. Usually there is not a whole room issue but a plant or two I hear. the first we did was a mattress bag, shop vac, and a tank. then clear garbage bags after that a dozen or so times. On the single plants you can watch the suckers curl up and die right before your eyes. Its oodles cheaper to confine the infected plants in a bag this way, thanks for posting that. Makes the technique more viable for the everyday garden.

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only somewhat related, but interesting none the less.





You can't really "taste" carbonation. You feel it the same way you feel pain. When soda exits the pressurized environment of the can or bottle and strikes your tongue, carbon dioxide gas rushes out of solution. It then mixes with water and carbonic anhydrase (an enzyme that helps your body move carbon dioxide into and out of cells) to form carbonic acid. When the concentration of carbonic acid reaches a certain level, nerve endings called nocireceptors send pain signals to the brain. This is the reason soda leaves a tingling sensation in your mouth after you swallow it—the carbonation is gone, but the carbonic acid is still around.

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do not use typical c02 cartridges to fumigate a container with a clone or flower in it. These c02 containers, unless "food grade' contain oils that may not be good for your plants. I suggest keeping one cylinder of c02 around for the gassing of single plants or contained little ones. There are disposable c02 meters available to avoid the costs of an electronic one maybe, but if the bag is evacuated of air first, then filled with c02 and sealed, all visible bugs will die soon after.

 

It takes around 42 pounds of sugar every six weeks to keep a grow room 8x8x8 @ 1300ppm c02. much of which is not needed at lights off. The side effects are pounds of alcohol, faster finishes, increased terpene profiles, more potent harvest, heavier weights......

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Great thread!

 

Using CO2 instead of pesticides is the way to go!

 

I am trying to design my grow room to where I can make full use of CO2 24/7. To where when the lights are off in my flower room the CO2 will still be going to my veg plants outside of the flower room.

 

I only have one hurdle to get past and that is a meter. I would like a meter that reads 10K ppm or higher. I am willing to pay $1K for a digital meter, but it has to have something better than a 1 year warranty. It will be a must that it can read over 10K ppm for effective insect eradication.

 

Any recommendations?

 

I am using 20 lb. CO2 cylinders (gas).

 

 

Edit: I can't wait to get my CO2 all hooked up and see what difference it makes in the grow room. After I see any differences, I will make best use of pure oxygen. I am hoping that the oxygen will also make a quality difference. With the oxygen, I plan to use an air stone, like for a fish tank, and aerate the water before giving it to my plants. The roots need oxygen.

Edited by GrowGoddess
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yes i thought about doing air stones in the bottoms of pots.

oxygen dont cha know? :)

 

this came to my attention

http://www.intelligentirrigationllc.com/

aquajet irrigation system, goes under the soil and shoots jets of water.

unlike drip irrigation which may not reach all parts of the roots, this aquajet thing sits in the root zone and shoots air and water out.

 

it can also deliver nutes at the same time as water and air.

 

but thats only for gardens, raised beds or greenhouse grows. wont work in pots.

Edited by t-pain
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This article (old) suggests that no other form of c02 but bottled is capable of maintaining 10k ppm for an hour, but then questions it(?) also. I'm not sure about that, because a single flame would be able to generate unlimited c02 in an unlimited space given enough time. A few quick breath near a monitor and the ppm's are @ 1500, its not rocket science really. a four burner generator produces waaay more c02 than 10kppm, of course, depending on the size and the expected time to completion.

 

The ultimate grow room



CANNABIS CULTURE - How to build the ideal indoor environment for your cash crop.
By Pete Brady -






In the previous issue of Cannabis Culture, we interviewed a veteran Canadian commercial marijuana grower named BC Hardcore, and visited several of his commercial grow houses (CC#47, BC's million dollar grow shows).

In that article, we explained how commercial growers maximize security and yield by using clever risk-avoidance techniques, and by retrofitting and enhancing electrical systems of regular houses so that the houses become hundred-light cultivation factories.

This installment of our commercial grow series explains the revolutionary Closed Growing Environment (CGE) method, which allows growers to create indoor microclimates ideal for plant growth while also enhancing grower security.

CGE is used by the best commercial growers, but CGE techniques are useful for all growers. Even small-scale cultivators may be able to benefit from adopting some of these methods.

In an ideal CGE grow operation, all ballasts, electrical plug-ins, air conditioning, and other equipment are sequestered in rooms that do not contain plants. This keeps unwanted heat and equipment out of plant rooms, decreases electrical dangers, and increases maintenance flexibility.

Some growers place air conditioning units, ballasts, and other electrical equipment in rooms specially designed to control electrical hazards, while placing nutrient reservoirs, propane tanks and related equipment in other segregated, non-plant rooms.

CGE eliminates problems caused by exchanging air with the outside world. One air exchange problem happens when cannabis produces heady odors due to evaporation of volatile terpenoids; these odors, when dispersed out of the grow room, can alert police and rip-offs.

Non-CGE growers spend lots of money on ionizers, ozonators, and other devices to prevent odor vectoring to the outside world, but CGE is the most cost-effective, efficient odor control method because it does not allow air to escape the grow environment.

The CGE method also eliminates problems caused when untreated outdoor air brings insects, fungi, spores, molds, and even hemp pollen into a grow room.

When BC Hardcore builds CGE grow rooms, his teams install major venting systems consisting of aluminum and sheet metal vent pipes connected to air conditioning units and outfitted with activated coconut carbon charcoal filters that have the size and tubular appearance of a 40-gallon hot water heater.

Such filters eliminate odors and pathogens; the charcoal in them should be replaced every four to eight months. Growers recommend locating charcoal filters at the top of a grow room so they are easily connected to venting systems, and because warm air rising in the room often carries with it the most pungent odor particles.

Some growers use ionizers and ozonators for odor and disease control, but Hardcore insists that these devices are not especially useful, especially in large rooms.

Ozonators come in two types: ultraviolet ozonators which work best in rooms with up to seven lights, and electrical corona ozonators that are installed in air venting in larger grow rooms. Although ozone generators are useful for killing spider mites, spores, fungi, and powdery mildew during down time between crop cycles, they're also hard to maintain, are not 100% effective in reducing odors and pathogens, and, for human safety reasons, are not recommended for use during crop cycles.

Hardcore favors charcoal filter odor control, augmented by in-line fans that are big enough to exchange all the air in the room in an hour. Instead of bringing air in from outdoors, the fan and carbon filter clean the air in grow rooms, or in a separate "mixing" room, and put clean air back out into grow rooms for plants to breathe.

Feed the breeze

CO2 augmentation is necessary in a CGE environment because air is recirculated, instead of having fresh CO2-rich air brought in from outdoors.

CO2 augmentation is useful in most indoor grow environments, even non-CGE environments, because CO2 speeds plant growth. However, when CO2 is used in rooms that are not properly sealed, the gas can cause health hazards, and is partially wasted when it escapes the grow room instead of being totally absorbed by plants.

CO2 is easily provided by tanks, but tanked CO2 is very expensive compared to that provided by CO2 generators which burn propane or natural gas. (When Hardcore uses propane CO2 generators he uses 100-pound propane tanks instead of smaller tanks to avoid having to do a lot of refill work.)

The use of tanked CO2 can facilitate the killing of spider mites and other pests. In true sealed grow rooms that have no leaks, growers can kill all pests by upping CO2 levels to 10,000 parts per million (ppm) for one hour. Other CO2 augmentation methods are incapable of generating 10,000 ppm for an hour ? only the tank supply method is capable of providing that concentration of CO2. Especially when using 10,000 ppm bug-killing tactics, growers must use safety methods that minimize the health problems that CO2 can cause for humans.

The burning of propane or natural gas produces pure CO2, but also produces heat and humidity, which can stifle plants. Excessive heat inhibits plant intake of CO2. Growers seeking to avoid adding heat and humidity to grow environments sometimes put their CO2 generators outside the grow rooms and use fans to send CO2 from the generators into rooms via duct systems. CO2 generators used in rooms should be hung above the lights; to increase CO2 dispersion, several small generators should be used rather than one large generator.

CO2 stimulates plant growth, but must be circulated to the underside of leaves where plant transpiration takes place. Plants do not utilize much CO2 during dark cycles, so CO2 controllers should be set to decrease or stop the flow of CO2 when grow lights are off. The keys to successful use of CO2 augmentation are good air circulation and maintenance of adequate CO2 levels.

BC Hardcore uses CO2 sequencers and controllers that measure air density and then turn the CO2 devices on and off to maintain a 1,500 ppm CO2 level in the rooms. CO2 units that can generate 26-38 cubic feet of CO2 per hour are generally adequate to maintain 1,500 ppm when used in pairs in rooms that have 10-20 lights.

Hardcore recommends having wall mounted fans above the lights, and also at a height about two feet below the lights. He also likes to have CO2-rich air pushed into his rooms via intake fans, with exhaust fans on the other end of the room pulling the CO2 through the plants.

Most CGE growers use sensors to monitor air and other factors to ensure an ideal growing environment: 73-78?F (23-25?C) temperatures, 40-55% humidity, 1,500 ppm CO2, constant air flow and aeration, and scrubbed air.

Some sensors can be equipped with remote monitoring and notification features so that growers are notified by pager if their grow room environment has slipped out of optimum. When combined with computerized interface and cross-links to security systems, growers can instantly find out what's happening to their grow room from almost anywhere in the world.

Air conditioning

Obviously, large commercial grow rooms depend on industrial-strength air conditioning (A/C) units.

Hardcore says it's relatively easy to calculate A/C needs. Air conditioners are rated by a "BTU" cooling capacity per ton; they are rated at 12,000 BTUs for every ton of cooling capacity. Each 1,000-watt HPS light in a CO2-augmented room requires about 3,500 BTUs of cooling to maintain a target ideal growing temperature of 78?F (25?C). For every 1,000-watt light in a non-CO2 grow room, growers need about 2,800 BTUs of cooling capacity.

These formulas can be downsized by 10% if light ballasts and CO2 generators are located in a central room outside the grow room.

In some commercial houses, growers use five-ton water-cooled air conditioners; a five-ton A/C unit provides 60,000 BTUs of cooling.

Other growers use "split" air conditioners that have a compressor outdoors and the cooling A-frame indoors. An A-frame split air conditioner uses air to cool the Freon and compressor, while water-cooled air conditioners use water for this task.

Water-cooled units are less noisy: they don't have a fan and compressor running outside the grow house, as often occurs with a split five-ton. Water-cooled air conditioners use five gallons of water per minute, so people who rely on wells or other insufficient water supplies can easily run out of water.

Water companies monitor usage on behalf of drug warriors, and even if drug warriors aren't monitoring water usage, the water bill can be very large. That's why commercial growers often use above-ground swimming pools to store and recirculate water for water-cooled units. Some growers also lower their water bills by drilling holes in the water-measuring paddles of water meters.

The water-cooled A/C preferred by Hardcore is an "active" system that uses a compressor and Freon. So-called "passive" systems cool by running water through a coil that air is blown over, and they are less expensive to use.

For every three 1,000-watt lights, growers should use one 16-inch oscillating fan. Along with the obvious benefits of increased air circulation, fans blowing on plants will force thicker stalk development, which will create better nutrient circulation, healthier plants, and increased yield.

In some circumstances, it might be necessary to pull moisture out of the air to maintain ideal humidity between 40-50%. Dehumidifiers with drain systems offer one solution, but Hardcore prefers to outfit his air conditioner units so they also function as dehumidifiers.

He installs a heater core in an A-frame cooler inside the grow room. As the A-frame air conditioner runs it dehumidifies the room and is also cooling the room at the same time. The heating core is necessary because the cooling unit will keep on cooling as it dehumidifies, which can drop room temperature below 78?F (25?C). The heating core boosts temperature back up to 78?F (25?C) and also helps dehumidify rooms more efficiently because warmer air holds more moisture.

Clone encounters

During the initial build-out of a CGE grow room, carpenters wait until insulation, venting, and electrical work is complete before they build plywood grow trays that are three to six feet wide. The trays are coated in plastic or fiberglass, and drainage is built in. Hardcore emphasizes that plant trays or pots should not sit directly on floors. Floors are usually cold, and root temperature has big effects on plant health and growth. Elevating roots so that they stay warm is very important.

Hardcore has experimented with all types of grow mediums, from rockwool to expanded clay pellets. He advises growers to use Sunshine Mix #4 (a sphagnum moss/soil combination) because it is relatively inexpensive, easy to find, porous, and natural.

Commercial growers almost always use clones. Some growers build their own mother and cloning rooms, but most buy clones for between two to 10 dollars apiece from clone factories.

Hardcore and other commercial growers note that clones are one of the primary vectors for plant pests and diseases. Clones and clone factories should be rigorously inspected before growers buy clones and bring them to their final grow destination. Hardcore brings a magnifying glass, microscope and pathogen test kits to examine clones, clone mothers, grow medium, nutrient water, and the general grow environment.

He is very alert to even the most minor indicators of disease or pests. These include stippling, spotting, yellowing, curling or darkened areas on leaves, as well as more obvious signs of infestation, such as the thin white webs created by spider mites.

If there is any sign that clones are infected with plant pests, Hardcore says the clone seller should spray the clones with a regimen of pesticides, like Advanced Nutrients "Genius Oil" or "Bug Away." The grower should revisit the clone factory in five days and examine the clones again.

While it is possible that infested clones might be made safe by spraying, clones that exhibit plant diseases early on can probably never be made right, and should be absolutely avoided.

"Never bring sick or infested clones into your grow," Hardcore warns. "If mites, thrips, gnats, molds or mildews get in there, there will be hell to pay when you try to get them out. I would rather delay starting a new veg cycle, or even go to the trouble of using seeds, before I would buy a batch of suspect clones."

If you find healthy clones, place them directly into soil beds, or in three to five-gallon pots, spaced 15-20 per light. If the rooms use automated watering systems, they are outfitted with spaghetti line fed off a hose with one-inch header no-drip emitters. Growers use valves to adjust flow levels on each feed. Nutrient solutions are stored in large, sterilized plastic barrels; sophisticated, flexible, pump-timer plumbing systems are used to get water from reservoir rooms to plants.

In rooms that are functioning properly, with plants metabolizing at max levels in ideal temperature and humidity, plants need water every two or three days. If you over-water, you literally suffocate your plant's roots.

In all commercial grow houses I visited, growers were using Advanced Nutrients products, but one grower had reservoirs containing General Hydroponics (GH) nutrients alongside his Advanced Nutrients reservoirs. He tested GH FloraGrow, FloraBloom and FloraMicro against Advanced Nutrients Sensi Pro Two Plus formula. The GH nutrients gave him 1.2 pounds per light with "Jamaican clones." The Advanced Nutrients Two Plus program gave him 1.9 pounds per light with the same type of clones.

Growers cited ease of use and increased bud weight and resin production as their reason for using Advanced Nutrients products. All the commercial growers who provided access for this article use Advanced Nutrients Final Phase to flush plants during the last week of flowering. They also use the company's Wipeout formula, along with two hours at 10,000 ppm CO2, to kill mites and other problems between crops.

Lessons learned

Even if you are only a hobbyist or small med-pot grower, the lessons of commercial cultivation should not be lost on you. A CGE commercial grow house is like a spaceship, with currents of clean, enriched air flowing across the brightly-lit leaves of healthy, happy plants grown in aerated, fertilized soil. Quality control and security are built in, so spider mites, diseases, rip-offs and other invaders never penetrate the glowing plant chambers.

"When you drive around Vancouver, you can bet that every fourth or fifth house has a grow op inside," BC Hardcore said proudly as his crew put the finishing touches on yet another commercial grow set-up.

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Great thread!

 

Using CO2 instead of pesticides is the way to go!

 

I am trying to design my grow room to where I can make full use of CO2 24/7. To where when the lights are off in my flower room the CO2 will still be going to my veg plants outside of the flower room.

 

I only have one hurdle to get past and that is a meter. I would like a meter that reads 10K ppm or higher. I am willing to pay $1K for a digital meter, but it has to have something better than a 1 year warranty. It will be a must that it can read over 10K ppm for effective insect eradication.

 

Any recommendations?

 

I am using 20 lb. CO2 cylinders (gas).

 

 

Edit: I can't wait to get my CO2 all hooked up and see what difference it makes in the grow room. After I see any differences, I will make best use of pure oxygen. I am hoping that the oxygen will also make a quality difference. With the oxygen, I plan to use an air stone, like for a fish tank, and aerate the water before giving it to my plants. The roots need oxygen.

Thanks,

 

I was privy to a handheld some years ago and it could read up to 50k ppm c02. I built a small window with a window box on the other side where I put some crickets and spiders and watched them die. I could tell it would not have taken the 10k to kill them but will say that @ 10 k they were dead and other insects around the room like spiders were on the floor curled up too. I am growing in an insulated section of an outbuilding so outdoor sauna's are appreciated by everything that lives, especially in the winter. Animals want to move above, below, inside, and around my craft area but I got a good ey, traps, and tricks up my sleeve.

 

my generator is opposite of lower than my window so I just bypassed the controller https://4hydroponics.com/cap-ppm-4-co2-monitor and let the generator do it thing. I periodically check the window test bug until dead. I first thing in the morning and in a few hours its all done. maybe quicker but I don't babysit anymore.

 

there is this interesting tidbit too. https://4hydroponics.com/titan-controls-atlas-6-iaq-monitor its not a controller, but you don't need a controller except to keep you at 1500ppm daily. take a look at a c02 generator, either natural gas if you have it, or propane. its a fraction of the cost of bottled c02, safe as an oven, and less obvious at the bottled gas refill station.

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I guess I could go with a basic digital monitor. It does not control the CO2 though, just tells you what it is.

http://www.amazon.com/Indoor-Air-Quality-Meter-Temperature/dp/B001PDGFR8

 

Until I find a nice controller with at least a 3-year warranty that can read above 10Kppm. Pretty much all I have seen so far only come with a 1-year warranty and cost $800 and up.

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that store is in Grand Rapids, very smart, very professional. I don't work for them, nor have I ever. I have indeed spent thousands there though over the years with a great experience every time.

 

Me too. I would say that I am one of their preferred customers :D.

 

Any time there was a problem, they did not hesitate to fix it, even if they were taking a loss.

 

They have surely treated me right!

 

As for gas, not too obvious with my equipment. I have been using CO2 on and off for 15 years. My tanks say Pepsi on them. I get them filled at places that deal with welding gasses. They get a lot of customers for soda and beer dispensing. I guess you can also use CO2 with welders.

 

I never thought much of it until the law went into effect here in MI.

 

Going in and out of a hydro store with CO2 tanks is more obvious.

 

In my case, I don't think I will have the room for a CO2 generator. If I had a basement that is what I would choose though.

 

The CO2 generator can be dangerous indoors too. More so than CO2 tanks in my opinion. With a CO2 tank the only threat is the gas itself. With a generator you are dealing with the flammable gas, fire, the CO2, and if something goes wrong, CO.

 

How many gallons per hour of water do those generators produce?

 

In the summer my grow room is already at maximum humidity. In the winter it would be tempting. Just don't have the space for one.

 

I have condensed my entire grow operation into an 11' x 12' room, completely sealed.

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Thanks,

 

I was privy to a handheld some years ago and it could read up to 50k ppm c02. I built a small window with a window box on the other side where I put some crickets and spiders and watched them die. I could tell it would not have taken the 10k to kill them but will say that @ 10 k they were dead and other insects around the room like spiders were on the floor curled up too. I am growing in an insulated section of an outbuilding so outdoor sauna's are appreciated by everything that lives, especially in the winter. Animals want to move above, below, inside, and around my craft area but I got a good ey, traps, and tricks up my sleeve.

 

my generator is opposite of lower than my window so I just bypassed the controller https://4hydroponics.com/cap-ppm-4-co2-monitor and let the generator do it thing. I periodically check the window test bug until dead. I first thing in the morning and in a few hours its all done. maybe quicker but I don't babysit anymore.

 

there is this interesting tidbit too. https://4hydroponics.com/titan-controls-atlas-6-iaq-monitor its not a controller, but you don't need a controller except to keep you at 1500ppm daily. take a look at a c02 generator, either natural gas if you have it, or propane. its a fraction of the cost of bottled c02, safe as an oven, and less obvious at the bottled gas refill station.

 

 

I wasn't considering monitors.... I was looking into controllers.

 

I think a monitor just might be what I need. Sure has opened up some options!

 

Thanks!

 

I also like to use CO2 to flood my stash jars for long term storage of buds.

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you'll find it cheaper to use vacuum to remove oxygen at home than to use c02 to displace it ;)

 

I think I would opt for a tank if indoors also, but glad I'm outdoors for the save. I'd be more afraid of the flames and propane than the tipped tank, which is way easier to prevent. good move.

 

I'll admit that I could and have grown enough to comfortably supply 5 patients and myself with your space. I supported the space of the same size-my office/recording studio:( - with several tents of different sizes. It was a maze inside, turn, unzip, work, zip, turn repeat. and I loved it. My issue came when I decided for giggles to put some dirt in a bucket with some organic fertilizer. I just couldn't turn back, and found a huge painintheass factor with dirt in the house. I built a huge barn, with a huge grow room inside. torn right form the pages of High Times with all the bells and whistles. My hydro had been successful for a year inside my home, and a year outside until the final change over. I also grew outside and realized my fears of a stinking homestead detected even 300 feet away at the road, the only un treed opening on the property. scared the crap out of me so no more of that. then I smelled the grow inside the building, the condensation from the air exchange(I'm dumb with controls. favor the "mickey mouse game" approach, and it shows every chance I get.) So decided to seal the room and stop sharing outside air. voila! years later not one issue, 100% organic, 100% dirt. no more buckets, 2 gallon containers instead. Fortunately I have a spring directly under my veg room(nice, I know) with a spigot on spot. If I had to lug water, I dunno I'd be so happy bout the arrangement. When inside I used a large wet vac with a drain line pump to empty out the window for reservoir changes. only one flood, a disaster actually but I recovered, convinced wife it couldn't happen again, or at least she wouldn't know about it right.

 

I miss my old arrangement, and take advantage of all the silly space by storing all the junk I no longer need and I should be listing on CL already. Its like an indoor greenhouse rather than an indoor grow room. when it was hydro it was pure and white and clean with beautiful rocks at every spot, now,.....well, you know. I have no 420 chick around, and I don't like to labor, you can guess the rest I'm sure, plus, I'm just a boy. its phone call monitored, vid/audio in house, fire control, o2 depletion, propane sensor, carbon monoxide sensor, alarmed, insured, inspected, etc. I cant complain, but it was a silly move, I needed only a small portion of the room(s)to do twice what I need to do. oh well.

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GrowGoddess,

 

thanks, you've inspired me to start listing my "no longer needed"  equipment on the classifieds here. In the tents I used cool tubes, but in the sealed room I use bare bulbs. I first bought a water cooled c02 generator thinking heat would be an issue for me but was wrong so I switched to a pilot lit one. I hope someone here can use these items.

 

peace

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