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Questions On Goo' Tubes (Ahhhh-Ha)


  

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  1. 1. Goo' Tube choice? (Extraction tube)

    • Glass
      1
    • Metal
      2


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So I looked around a tidbit but figured I'd come back here to the board members for your advice.

 In the event of doing extractions, is it better to use a glass or a metal extraction-tube? The metal, specifically, would be stainless steel as far as I am aware.

Edited by AbominableDro-Man
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better? just make sure you use a plastic that doesn't allow butane to be extracted.

                                                          edit: that doesn't contain chems that will be extracted using butane.

 

I say glass. yep, it breaks, but that's why you're working carefully, with 100% of your attention devoted.

If you drop the glass, put oil making behind you.

Edited by grassmatch
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better? just make sure you use a plastic that doesn't allow butane to be extracted.

                                                          edit: that doesn't contain chems that will be extracted using butane.

 

I say glass. yep, it breaks, but that's why you're working carefully, with 100% of your attention devoted.

If you drop the glass, put oil making behind you.

Better in the sense of which will be less likely to become over-pressurized whilst amongst ones' phalanges. So safer is the approach I'm going for here.

 

In regards to "plastic", what do you mean? Do you have any particular suggestions? Wasn't sure there would be any plastic involved with the route in question. Short of the little tray for holding the extract itself.

 

I see a lot of folk using either or, but I might almost be leaning towards the Glass tube (mostly for sanitary reasons, I'm a bit of a clean freak)

But then the thought of an over-pressurized glass tube in the palm of ones hand..

Edited by AbominableDro-Man
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stainless tubes are the best.  You can buy a whole 20' length of steel from a steel supply (arlo comes to mind).  You can cut the 20' tube in any length that you want.  The great thing about using SS is when it comes to removing the spent material.  Once you take off both end caps, you can push all the material out using a broom handle; similar to a bowel movement!  ;)

Edit:  you dont have to worry about "over pressurized"  it isn't a closed loop so the pressure isn't building up.  I've never heard of a glass tube breaking due to "pressure building up"

Glass is nice because you can see the material inside but it sure isn't fun to remove the spent material with a coat hanger.

 

How is glass more sanitary than stainless?

Edited by garyfisher
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I had read (the link to the discussion currently escapes me) that in a couple of cases the material had been too finely ground and blocked the tube, causing a bit of pressure.

 

It's easier for me to see through glass while I'm doing dishes than metal.  :bong2:

 

But you're right, a coat hanger doesnt sound like much fun...

Edited by AbominableDro-Man
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ok after I say what I say im gonna duck, but let me first say people who dont like the way I do it are plain paranoid and must have never done honey oil back in the 60's 70's and 80's

 

Use pvc pipes, cut them to lenghth, I have a 4" around 16" long It holds close to 2 oz's, I also have a 2" same length,holds one oz You buy a solid end cap and a pvc joiner end, on the solid end you drill a hole the size of the butane tip, on the joiner (open) end you fill up your shake in the tube with the end on that has the butane hole, I make it realy shaky, I use a blender than you put two unbleached coffee filters over the top and put your open jointer end over it, make sure you didnt poke a hole in the coffee filter,

 

Than I have a pyrex/glass pan I extract into, I take my glass pan and put it inside of a aluminum pan(like a throw away turkey pan) I make sure the aluminum pan is larger than the pyrex,

 

Than I go into my garage and lock doors, turn off all power, I open any windows I can, and I start extracting, I can usualy fit 2 cases of butane in my pyrex, what I do is get my ground up sugar leafs and lil buds out in the garage, I get a large garbage bag, I put my pyrex where I can sit and extract easily where no gas or elctric sparks can happen, I run a case thru the 2 extractors I have, I put like 2 oz in one and 1 oz in the other, I use 2 cans on the 2 oz and 1 can of butane on the 1oz, you can use more but you will be waisting your time, after I get the first case ran thru, I take a break and go have a smoke out side a long way from my extraction area,

 

after each 2 can and 1 can extraction I empty my tubes into the large garbage bag, I only take of the filtered end, I tap it out, no hanger needed, I wipe out the end and refill, when I empty it, I look at what is coming out, and if there is a dry not frozen part i didnt use enough butane, I dont rerun it but I will use more if needed,

 

once I run the 2nd case thru I go get a hot picture of tap water, and pour it around the pyrex into the aluminum pan (i try not to get any water in the extraction, but if I do it seperates) I will pick the pyrex out of the aluminum pan and empty the water and do this as many times as I need to until most or all the butane liquid is gone, than I bring it in the house, I do another round of warm water, I scrape or pour out the bho into a glass container and I put it on a coffee cup warmer to heat off any butane that may be left!

 

enjoy!

 

Peace

Edited by phaquetoo
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perfect, except for the PVC. Butane extracts its own friends form PVC with every squirt I've read. I experimented with this in a closed loop system(yeah buddy!) with a chunk of pvc pipe instead of herb, because I wanted to see for myself. ewwww, is all I can say, when 100% of the tane was recaptured, ewww, was left behind form the pvc.

For thought, the same system will, after washing in acetone even, extract the oil from a brand new steel ball bearing. The system is triple acid washed, yet some oil will still result in a blank run, 2,3 times even, just from the elusive oil in the stainless steel. I don't know if the same happens in an open blast, probably not as intense.

 

I want you here for a long time man, stay safe. those honey bee ones are abs I think, and I cant get a drop (of mystery oil)out of those.

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I planned on being particularly safe with said experiment, I'm thinking a Metal one will go for now, but I plan on purchasing it as my own handy skills are limited in regards to creating even simple devices.

 

The process I've been considering is almost identical to how you do things Phaq, minus the smoke break, I'd get distracted if I let myself lol

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trapping the butane in with the mj for even short durations will result in a heavier yield, as reviewed on that website. The reason for this is foreign plant material, other than active ingredients, ultimately lowering the "potency" by weight. Its difficult to notice the subtle nuances between the two, and the wax actually tastes darn good, and who doesn't want added weight right?

The temperature of your butane, and of the dried/fresh material will also produce vast differences in your end product. Color, potency, viscosity, smell, burn ability are noticed.

 

Any blast tube will work for the purpose. If one was spending money on a device I would think that recovery would be the concern. The tube on amazon will be perfect, coupled with a recovery tank. But then you're spending the amount on a device >= the price of a Tamisium, which comes with waay more safety features, documented testing for leaks, pressures, etc, lab grade materials. I've used both and offer an opinion only.

Use a flour grinder/lid to prepare dried material before extracting for good results. A sized wooden dowel makes for a great compressor of herb. NButane is now available in a can, for a more pure experience. "5x Filtered" means a "mechanical filtration for the removal of solids, helping a lighter function without interruption". Avoid china, korea made cans. uk, us, etc are cleaner. If it smells like rotten eggs the name is mercaptan, an added chem to alert a user to a dangerous leak. spray butane on a piece of glass and if it leaves no residue behind....its gooder for you.

 

be safe man, some have lost their hair over this, and worse.

 

if you're not reclaiming there are other solvent options that might prove to be safer to use. Butane is ideal because of its vaporizing temp, around room temp. This allows a quick reclaim, a guarantee of complete removal, and simple manipulation of the gas/liquid.

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perfect, except for the PVC. Butane extracts its own friends form PVC with every squirt I've read. I experimented with this in a closed loop system(yeah buddy!) with a chunk of pvc pipe instead of herb, because I wanted to see for myself. ewwww, is all I can say, when 100% of the tane was recaptured, ewww, was left behind form the pvc.

For thought, the same system will, after washing in acetone even, extract the oil from a brand new steel ball bearing. The system is triple acid washed, yet some oil will still result in a blank run, 2,3 times even, just from the elusive oil in the stainless steel. I don't know if the same happens in an open blast, probably not as intense.

 

I want you here for a long time man, stay safe. those honey bee ones are abs I think, and I cant get a drop (of mystery oil)out of those.

That is why I use an open end, the butane is not in there long enough to do what your close looped system does, I dont recover my butane, I used to just drill like 5 holes on a closed end and put a coffee filter behind that, and it held it in alot longer, and I had a hard time seeing when the color stopped coming out, I have these tubes down to the exact amount of butane to run w/o any waiste, I just did my own experiment to see that I was getting it all out of the mm, I reran 2 zips, it came back black and poopy lol, I dont beleive I get a ton of pvc, but im gonna just stay ducked now, but I dont like metal because of the chance of sparks, new carpet pieces in your garage can spark also, I need a smoke break because the scchit makes me nerious lol!

 

Peace

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Well alrighty then, I looked into the Tamisium and it's a little out of my price range for the time being (hovering around 2k is a bit of a beast). 

 

The plans as far as I am aware, unless I changed them on myself, were that this will be done in a wide open, well ventilated area. The floor of said area is cement, with the only metal component within 25ft being the extraction device itself. I WILL be using Ntane, I will accept no less. Period. I do not accept cheap shortcut tricks using cheaper materials in regards to what will be put in, I want this to be as absolutely safe for my patients and myself to consume as I can make it. I wont be reclaiming until I manage to scrounge around and save enough for a full, active-closed loop system, I'll settle for doing my damnedest and be taking time to purge all of the non-goodies until then. 

 

All material in question is always fresh frozen right off of the branch, it is cut off, put into a sealed container and nestled lovingly within a chest freezer. more often than not it is comprised as evenly of sugar buds as it is trim, I'd say there is more nug weight than trim weight. My material will be processed/chopped/ground using a Ninja (It's a type of blender, works absolute wonders, turns it almost into dust, frozen or not)

The Ntane will also be stored in a freezer box/chest before use

 

In regards to the blasting into a pyrex dish, that will be what's done with the initial purge being done with a tray of very hot water (for some reason or another, I feel like it always seems like my water heater only comes in two settings, freezing and near boiling lol). 

 

Here is where I have yet another question, the secondary purge (I plan on letting it go until there are no bubbles) I was considering using a heat-plate (It would be located, again, in a separate area far away from the initial extraction area), it would already be on an running prior to avoid any sparking issues.  Now, I could do that, OR I could repeatedly just purge using my stupidly hot water. A post I read earlier on thcf suggested that after the initial purge, to put the material into a glass jar, place it into 135-145deg water, and wait for the bubbles to stop, popping bubbles along the way until it stops, ending in cratering. The post in question suggests that at that degree the extract will not burn/turn green. Anywho, from there it is my understanding that it is whipped repeatedly until the product is done, being carefully re-heated and purged until the product is "complete". Really though back to the subject of this TL;DR post-

 

opinions? Hot water, or a low temp heat plate for the secondary purge?

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Vacuum purge?

 

I've been researching a lot about co2 extraction done mainly with the apeks supercritical co2 extractor, designed for lavender, lol.

 

The $100,000 price tag on the machine is out of my price range but as a consumer I've always wondered about residual heavy metals and whatnot with butane extraction. Using co2 removes any of them concerns and is also a much safer process. It's catching on out west, one guy has a website where you scedule an appointment months, up to a year in advance. They use 10 pounds dried material in a closed loop system and recover 900-1600 grams per cycle.

 

I don't know how to post links on here, im on an iPad, but anyone interested the website is all strain premium cannabis oil

 

Back to your purge question I've seen and heard about different methods of vacuum purging BHO, might be what you're after.

 

Good luck, be safe :)

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That is why I use an open end, the butane is not in there long enough to do what your close looped system does, I dont recover my butane, I used to just drill like 5 holes on a closed end and put a coffee filter behind that, and it held it in alot longer, and I had a hard time seeing when the color stopped coming out, I have these tubes down to the exact amount of butane to run w/o any waiste, I just did my own experiment to see that I was getting it all out of the mm, I reran 2 zips, it came back black and poopy lol, I dont beleive I get a ton of pvc, but im gonna just stay ducked now, but I dont like metal because of the chance of sparks, new carpet pieces in your garage can spark also, I need a smoke break because the scchit makes me nerious lol!

 

Peace

for thought, the amount of devil you get from the pvc is low, but it is present.

the system I speak of did not allow the butane to be exposed to the pvc for but a half second.

The tane passed over it and was super sucked by vacuum instantly into the recovery tank, a lot

quicker than a blast tube really, because of the vaccum pulling it through the other "open" end.

Its not a "soak" system at all, although it could be if desired.

stay safe

 

besides a lab test for phthalates or similar, the way you can tell is to know the exact amount of butane in,

and then recover that exact amount, and then weigh whats left, as the tami does each cycle. pvc chems had a weight, and

were visible. the chunk I used was a 3 inch section of 2 1 nch pvc, set in the herb chamber. not to worry though, he same chems are present in sex toys, nearly all water hoses, cups, baby bottles, etc, though not exposed to butane solvents.

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Vacuum purge?

 

I've been researching a lot about co2 extraction done mainly with the apeks supercritical co2 extractor, designed for lavender, lol.

 

The $100,000 price tag on the machine is out of my price range but as a consumer I've always wondered about residual heavy metals and whatnot with butane extraction. Using co2 removes any of them concerns and is also a much safer process. It's catching on out west, one guy has a website where you scedule an appointment months, up to a year in advance. They use 10 pounds dried material in a closed loop system and recover 900-1600 grams per cycle.

 

I don't know how to post links on here, im on an iPad, but anyone interested the website is all strain premium cannabis oil

 

Back to your purge question I've seen and heard about different methods of vacuum purging BHO, might be what you're after.

 

Good luck, be safe :)

this is why some use N-butane, rather than smoke shop tane for the process. Understand there are over a dozen gases in most butanes. Not really an issue, except that they each have their own unique vapor point, and also polarity. They will each target a different set of constituents to extract, but mostly not a worry even. The biggy is mercaptan, and china poop, and korea may be under par. you can read at skunkphar all about the "mystery oil" left behind with each "smoke shop" blast. For some reason there is an oil in those cans, maybe a lubricant, manufacturing drips, or even the inherent oil in the metal being extracted via butane contents.

 

there are no heavy metals that I know of in nbutane gas. smoke shop cans are 3-6$ typically , while ntane cans (just available) are 10-15$ per. you can see the financial motive to use cheaper solvents already. The Ntane canisters(20#?) like a bbq propane, cost a coupe few hundred dollars to fill, a can rental, and squinted/accusing eyes every time my buddy got a refill, back when it was legal.

 

We used other solvents too, food grade ones even. the possibilities are endless. The system will extract even with the original, universal solvent water. They all target differently, and each has its own ad/disadvantages in process depending.

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