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Grow Room Consultant?


Alleyenoisdope

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right on, but I use my own spring water wlel inside of the grow room.

 

does municipal supply alter ph/growing/ etc?

I haven't noticed a difference between well water, r/o, or city water with organic soil, but I haven't done a ph reading since I made the switch. I can't say scientifically if it altered the ph, but from my perspective everything is going correctly. Deep greens to start and yellowes, purples, and reds to finish. The tomatoes and azaleas love it too, so I'm guessing it's at a good acidity.

 

I for sure ph'd the water when I used bottled nutes. I don't miss deciding if it was a deficiency or lock-out in the least!!!

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Sound advise. I've considered sectioning or partitioning-off a part of the room to have a separate veg and bud space. As for the "wall" separating the two areas, I'm unsure if a tarp or drywall would be best? I don't want Herm!! :unsure:

It depends on if you own or rent  for when you plan to leave if its your home then build a  wall for 1/3rd or 1/4 of the room for veg if its a rental then the tarp is easier to remove and put things back for your deposit.

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Like KD says, you only need a veg area about 1/3 the size of a flower room.

 

I made a veg area by hanging tarps from the ceiling. It is about a 6 X 8 area with tables under t-5 lights to keep the bonsai mother plants and 3 400 watt MH lights. I veg 8 plants under the 3 400 watt lights for about a month in 2-3 gallon pots of ProMix BX. Small pots work awesomely.

 

Next they go into a 5X10 flower room - constructed of framing lumber and OSB board with panda film on the walls - where they stay for 2 months or so. The flower room has 2 600 watt HPS vented hoods - vented to the outside of the house to remove the heat and humidity. I flower 8 plants at a time and stagger them so I get about 2 mature plants per month.

 

One thing I do that I think makes all the difference in the world is to rotate my plants - every single one of them -1/4 turn every day. So I flower 4 plants under each 600 watt hood.

 

Works for me.

Edited by AmishRnot4ganja
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I find visualization helpful in situations like this. This took me less than 5 mins with Google Sketchup/Make (same thing) and it's free. I have spent several hours playing with it. It is quick, throw down  and incredible. Shown is a representation of an 8 x 10' room. with 33%  walled off for clones vegging etc as KD suggested. Of course I didn't show any doors if you find it usefull I can fill in some details or ...  maybe it helps? 

 

gallery_2767_852_3274.png

This one probably makes more sense...

gallery_2767_852_23601.png

Edited by solabeirtan
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 Versus half your plants being budless cuttings and mothers and vegging plants useless for buds now: which i define as half-azzzzzzzzzzzzzz  super inefficiency.  Stagger your buys with periods between.  This children, is how to use 80 square feet like a pro. 

 

 provide for your patients in an uninterruptible legal fashion vs selling your entire crop to a dispensary/buyer at each harvest. pounds at a time? registrations? patients?   all considerations for the legal operator.

 

  I understand op seeks to provide legally, non stop, to his patients with the lowest risks possible. Buying clones in Detroit is not low risk. considering the law says only criminals can sell cannabis plants to another. without registration, its so much safer to just plant seeds.

 

I cannot store enough cannabis to last 60 days for myself and my patients without losing my protections. A perpetual harvest scheme is the only way for me to accomplish this-legally.   I dont keep moms, instead I clone from a clone. My veg room is full of my numbers serving as a buffet of choices to be flowered upon request. My patients let me know what they will want in the next two and three months and I can always provide it. I can keep a legal amount on standby for my needs and for patients' needs, to be delivered next day.

Otherwise, without the legal restrictions I'd simply grow my numbers outdoors, crop them all, and dole out the pounds during the following year.....aint gonna happen, isnt legal to do so, and is risky grower business. 

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I find visualization helpful in situations like this. This took me less than 5 mins with Google Sketchup/Make (same thing) and it's free. I have spent several hours playing with it. It is quick, throw down  and incredible. Shown is a representation of an 8 x 10' room. with 33%  walled off for clones vegging etc as KD suggested. Of course I didn't show any doors if you find it usefull I can fill in some details or ...  maybe it helps? 

 

 

 

Awesome stuff!! And thanks for the visual, it definitely helps. The bottom sketch would make the perfect layout. It appears as If I would only have to build 1 1/2 maybe 2 walls and frame a door? Sounds doable. Thanks again for the assist. Any additional renderings will be most appreciated. :) 

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I do not have the experience those who have already replied have and just want to say, don't cut corners.

Plan your space ahead of time.  Purchase what you will need and get it set up.  You can 'dial' it in once

you are growing.  I really wish I had not tried to piece meal my room as it has been over 2 years now

putting this together with out a full harvest.  Some of my issues were of my own making as I was learning

of course but many could have been avoided if I had planned things out better and bought what I needed

up front.

 

I find cloning very easy and vegging is mostly a breeze.  I fail in flower for several reasons. 

 

There are places and reputable patients/ cg's where you can get clones however.

 

 

I wish you the best.

 

Let us know how it goes.

 

Thank you and I sure will. Just in the last couple of days alone I've learned a great deal. Also, sound advise you give. I agree that cutting the corners is not the way to go. Carefully planning seems to be essential.

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Like KD says, you only need a veg area about 1/3 the size of a flower room.

 

I made a veg area by hanging tarps from the ceiling. It is about a 6 X 8 area with tables under t-5 lights to keep the bonsai mother plants and 3 400 watt MH lights. I veg 8 plants under the 3 400 watt lights for about a month in 2-3 gallon pots of ProMix BX. Small pots work awesomely.

 

Next they go into a 5X10 flower room - constructed of framing lumber and OSB board with panda film on the walls - where they stay for 2 months or so. The flower room has 2 600 watt HPS vented hoods - vented to the outside of the house to remove the heat and humidity. I flower 8 plants at a time and stagger them so I get about 2 mature plants per month.

 

One thing I do that I think makes all the difference in the world is to rotate my plants - every single one of them -1/4 turn every day. So I flower 4 plants under each 600 watt hood.

 

Works for me.

 

Nice game plan. Staggering the plants is a great idea that I will use. As for lighting, how many separate lamps would you suggest for a room this size?  

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Nice game plan. Staggering the plants is a great idea that I will use. As for lighting, how many separate lamps would you suggest for a room this size?

 

2 lamps at 600 watts would be perfect for that space. 1000w would also be fine, but your coverage will hurt a little on the 10 ft side.

 

Going with two will obviously cost a few more bucks for another ballast and light, but it also offers room to expand later down the road. Select-a-watt ballasts are pretty neat as you can switch 400, 600, or 1000w.

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I haven't noticed a difference between well water, r/o, or city water with organic soil, but I haven't done a ph reading since I made the switch. I can't say scientifically if it altered the ph, but from my perspective everything is going correctly. Deep greens to start and yellowes, purples, and reds to finish. The tomatoes and azaleas love it too, so I'm guessing it's at a good acidity.

 

I for sure ph'd the water when I used bottled nutes. I don't miss deciding if it was a deficiency or lock-out in the least!!!

 

Organic soil. Now does that differ greatly from a general growing medium such Pro Mix? Is organic soil accompanied by organic nutrients?

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Organic soil. Now does that differ greatly from a general growing medium such Pro Mix? Is organic soil accompanied by organic nutrients?

it does and it doesn't differ, if that helps :). Some guys will add organic nutes to promix and some will make their own medium. Usually one part peat, one part vermiculite, and one part compost.

 

When I say organic soil, what I mean to say is a living soil with the nutrients and minerals mixed in and "cooked". Organic has a different meaning for many folks, but to me it just means a medium with the nutrients worked in. There are nuances when you get into omri, best practices and opinions on the matter, but thats life. My plants just take up what they need as the microbials break stuff down. I could put a seed in my soil and only add water until the end and it would be pretty darn good. Most organic growers make and use enzyme and compost tea for max efficiency though.

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Organic soil. Now does that differ greatly from a general growing medium such Pro Mix? Is organic soil accompanied by organic nutrients?

 

 

 I use promix, and still say that I practice organic methods, fertilizers etc....

i use Botanicare flowering crumbles, about 70 bucks for fifty # delivered. shop around at your fav online, or ask the grow store to get you some.

Edited by grassmatch
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it does and it doesn't differ, if that helps :). Some guys will add organic nutes to promix and some will make their own medium. Usually one part peat, one part vermiculite, and one part compost.

 

When I say organic soil, what I mean to say is a living soil with the nutrients and minerals mixed in and "cooked". Organic has a different meaning for many folks, but to me it just means a medium with the nutrients worked in. There are nuances when you get into omri, best practices and opinions on the matter, but thats life. My plants just take up what they need as the microbials break stuff down. I could put a seed in my soil and only add water until the end and it would be pretty darn good. Most organic growers make and use enzyme and compost tea for max efficiency though.

I'm with you on the two 600 watt lights over the one 1000 watt light.

the dial a watt ballasts require the highest watt bulb to be in there. cant put a 400 watt bulb into a 1000 watt dial a watt ballast.

 

I expect an organic grower to not be using chelators, growth regulators, harmful pesticides, fungicides etc. I took it further and included drinking safe gator Hyde hoses, a dedicated spring water well inside the veg room, and I only use essential oil found in cannabis when I need to spot treat soil/vegging plants for a winged pest.

 

on a side note....I have a source for pre mixed or pure basal salts. they are  the highest quality salts, but still salts. I have half my flowering room using a hybrid fert system and the other just the botanicare in the soil.

Using my Octopots I can fill the reservoir with a custom salt mix(that wont go stinky and doesnt need aeration) while organically feeding plants in the soil bags on top of the res. I've honestly never had better cannabis experiences and patients say they dont care about the word :organic: as long as "none of those funny business sprays/strips/bombs are used."

I was dedicated hydro you know, tilll I filled a bucket with promix/botanicare, but these days....now I see magic. Once that tap root laps at the surface of the salt fert water unicorns appear.

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I expect an organic grower to not be using chelators, growth regulators, harmful pesticides, fungicides etc. I took it further and included drinking safe gator Hyde hoses, a dedicated spring water well inside the veg room, and I only use essential oil found in cannabis when I need to spot treat soil/vegging plants for a winged pest.

Word. I suppose I meant to imply "no funny business" is involved with organic growing, but hey, let's let him get the room built before we go full on!! :)
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the dial a watt ballasts require the highest watt bulb to be in there. cant put a 400 watt bulb into a 1000 watt dial a watt ballast.

 

they make dial versions and select-a-watt versions too. I can do 400, 600, or 1000 on a single ballast. Change bulb and adjust dial and you're good. Stores and even manufacturers aren't very clear on some of them.
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Organic soil. Now does that differ greatly from a general growing medium such Pro Mix? Is organic soil accompanied by organic nutrients?

Organic soil is where you mix organic dry nutrients into a medium such as Promix. I tried this and have found that I prefer to use organic liquid nutrients - such as Botanicare - to feed the plants. It is easier to regulate the amount of nutes in the soil and they work great following the instructions on the bottle.

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I have Lumatek ballasts that go from 400, 600, 750, and 1000 watts. I use 600 watt bulb and set dial to 600 watts, never had any problems with the set up.

 

Are you saying this is not proper way to use?

 

they make dial versions and select-a-watt versions too. I can do 400, 600, or 1000 on a single ballast. Change bulb and adjust dial and you're good. Stores and even manufacturers aren't very clear on some of them.

 

 

yes, uhh, um , I mean no....perhaps I am confused. happens often, sorry. I recalled reading this early on with my Lumateks. So I just keep 1000 watters in and dial down with the same bulb when/if I want.

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Organic soil is where you mix organic dry nutrients into a medium such as Promix. I tried this and have found that I prefer to use organic liquid nutrients - such as Botanicare - to feed the plants. It is easier to regulate the amount of nutes in the soil and they work great following the instructions on the bottle.

thats it.....I'm going to take a look at their liquid line. dont get me wrong, I love the stink of composted dry poop, the way if sticks in the air for a few moments every time you scoop a cup, and grow stores love to stock manure smelling bags, not to mention the fedex love of delivering unwieldy boxes of lose dried poop crumbles, all day, in their little trucks......peeeeuuuuuu   but maybe its time to save on shipping costs, easy my nose and back a bit, and maybe have a cleaner experience.

 

thanks for the reminder.....

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Grass you said something about dividing the room with an "S" pattern, does this really keep the light separate, and did you use something like panda film? I am gona try this! I think it would work great for me if I can make it work, for airflow it sounds perfect for my new enclosed room. Any tips or anything more on this would be helpful. Such a genius!????

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I used panda film with a nail strip at the ceiling and the floor then at the door way I used another sheet to form the "S" curtain as my door.

 

Its flawless so far. I really did plan on buying some of those plastic shop type curtains....never got around to it since the S works fine.  leave a wide access, you can make your s any size you want, but I suggest making it so big, like a hallway, so no need to tie it back when you do major cleaning/moving etc. I just snapped a hole in the plastic and pushed it over a screw in the wall, till the hole got too big, and I poked another, then another, and another......no worries though, the holes are on the inside of the flower room side of the panda, and nobody will ever see my ridiculous hole punching ripped plastic fiasco anyways

 

cheap, quick, and functional.  good luck

Edited by grassmatch
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